MTR 1924 Malaysia – Michelin Approved Indian Vegetarian Cuisine in Brickfields
Words: Karen Santosuosso
Photos: Ivan Chong
For those craving the comforting depth of traditional South Indian fare, there’s a spot right in the heart of Brickfields that I’ll be trying to convince everyone I know to go to. Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, better known as MTR 1924 Malaysia, has recently earned its spot on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list, and I can easily see why. The KL offshoot of Bangalore’s iconic 100-year-old vegetarian restaurant stays true to its roots – good quality ingredients and age-old recipes – delivering an experience that is refreshingly unpretentious. It stands firm in its heritage, authenticity, and consistency.
MTR 1924’s Dishes Rooted in History
As a frequent trivia night attendee and appreciator of random facts, I love when any Yum List food experience also comes with a mini history lesson. Idli, one of South Indian cuisine’s main staple foods, is traditionally made with a rice and lentil batter. MTR’s manager Arun explains that, due to the rice shortage in India during World War 2, MTR’s original founders began experimenting with other ingredients that could be used for their traditional idli recipes. Thus, rava idli was invented. Rava, a semolina derived from durum wheat, has since been used in other MTR recipes that have remained popular throughout almost the whole last century.
We sink our teeth into the Rava Idli (RM 13) and enjoy the unique mixture of semolina, yoghurt, fresh coriander, mustard seed and cashews. It is drizzled with a dollop of ghee which Arun tells us is the main source of fat used in MTR’s dishes. The clarified butter can be a healthier alternative to other oils that are often used in cooking. We also sample the original Rice Idli (RM 10), which has a soft and fluffy texture and is paired with a green chutney and lentil sambar. I recommend going for the signature Rava Idli, but the traditional one is also comforting, especially if you’re looking for something a little less rich.
We sample another dish that highlights the rava semolina as a main ingredient – an Onion Rava Dosa (RM 18). The crepe is flavoured with onion, green chili, coriander, cumin seeds, grated coconut and more of that delightfully rich ghee. Our reelographer Jun comments that he gets hints of umami similar to parmesan cheese and I can’t agree more.
I believe one of my top five foods is a dosa, so I’m thrilled to try Arun’s MTR favourite – the Masala Dosa (RM 15.50). He tells us their batter is special as it has nine different ingredients including brown and red rice instead of the traditional white. The crepe comes out perfectly crispy on the outside, while also remaining chewy and soft on the inside. Stuffed with spiced potatoes and drizzled again with that morish golden ghee, it’s definitely a treat. Of course, we have to try a third dosa for comparison, so we go for the Benne Masala Dosa (RM 16.50). It’s actually the only dish on the menu that uses butter instead of ghee. The dollop of white butter is a tasty surprise, perfect for spreading on the rice and lentil crepe. I’m torn between this one and the regular Masala Dosa as my two favourite dishes of the afternoon.
Other dishes worth mentioning are the Uddin Vada (RM 11) and the Bisi Bele Bhath (RM16). The Uddin Vada are traditional South Indian savoury doughnuts made of a lentil batter. They’re wonderful for soaking up more spicy sambar and coconut chutney. The Bisi Bele Bhath is a rice and lentil stew with veggies, spices, curry leaves and tamarind pulp. Served with a yoghurt raitha and lentil chips on the side, it can be a nice hearty meal in itself.
MTR also has a variety of Mini Meals (RM 21) akin to thali sets with either fresh poori bread or dosa. Every day it’s a slightly different menu with a variety of veggies, rice, sambar, rasam, papad and pickles. I enjoy dunking pieces of the fried poori into the sour rasam broth and having a healthy serving of okra on the side.
Drinks & Desserts
The Mango Lassi (RM 16.50) and Cold Badam Milk (RM 16) are excellent choices for cutting through the heat of the chilli and spices in the dishes we try. The lassi is exactly what you want it to be – silky smooth and creamy with fresh mango, and a slightly sour taste from the yoghurt. The badam milk is a sweet mixture of almond, saffron, cardamom and sugar. It could suffice as a dessert on its own. Arun also has us sample the Buttermilk (RM 9), which is flavoured with cilantro, cumin and chillies. It’s an interesting drink that has a balance of tang and spice, which is not necessarily my go-to for a beverage, but I can see how it could complement an idli or dosa set. We also sip the Lime Soda Sweet & Salt (RM 11), which Jun says is like an upscale, homemade version of 100 Plus!
We end on a high note with some desserts and coffee. The Kesari Bhath (RM 10) is a thick porridge with dry roasted semolina, ghee, cashews, raisins and saffron. It’s well balanced and not too sweet. The showstopper, though, is the Gadbad (RM 19), albeit a little less ‘balanced’. It’s like a child’s dream with colourful layers of ice cream, grapes, mangoes, apples, jellies, dried dates, nuts and raisins. It looks like it’s come directly from Willy Wonka’s factory, but Arun tells us that it’s actually a classic dessert from Karnataka. The traditional Filter Coffee (RM 9) is made with fresh beans flown in from Bangalore and creamy Nandini milk. It has a chicory-roasted flavour and goes well with the sweet desserts.
Reasons to visit MTR 1924 Malaysia: get a taste of Michelin-worthy idli and dosas at an extremely reasonable price (the Masala Dosa and Benne Masala Dosa were my two favourites!); indoor seating and air-con (makes for a more comfortable experience rather than many other local outdoor-only spots in Brickfields); try one of their mini meals if you’re new to South Indian cuisine and want to sample a variety of dishes
MTR 1924 Malaysia
69 Jalan Thambipillay, Brickfields
50470 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to MTR 1924 on Google Maps
+603 2276 4924
@mtr1924malaysia
*Vegetarian
MTR 1924 Malaysia Operating Hours
8 am – 10:30 pm daily
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