Pickle – Chinatown Kuala Lumpur
Words: Chris Lentner
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Where I come from, the pickle is an afterthought. At best, it’s a mound of sour cabbage used to break up a fatty meal; at worst, it’s a flaccid cucumber you awkwardly nibble because you ate your cheeseburger too fast, and no one’s ready for dessert. For Chef Danial Thorlby, the pickle has a much deeper meaning. To him, the pickle symbolises the earth and its edible bounty. It’s the preservation of ingredients at peak freshness so they can be enjoyed throughout the year. It represents history, sustainability, and human ingenuity. Pickle Dining melds traditional preservation methods with modern techniques, integrating unique ingredients into classic dishes.
Pickle – Chinatown KL
Located in a nondescript alley adjacent to REXKL, Pickle is easy to miss. Unlike most places in the area, there’s no garish branding or neon lights. Instead, a simple glass door with red lettering opens to a steep stairway leading to the inviting dining space.
Walking into the industrial rustic restaurant is like walking into a scientist’s speakeasy. Long tables and colourful booths surround the open kitchen, where the crew works with quiet precision over wood and fire. Plumes of fragrant smoke emerge from the dancing flames, providing aromatic hints of the meal to come. “It’s primitive cooking,” comments Chef Danial. Jars of preserved fruits and vegetables in the aptly named “Pickle Library” are stacked on floor-to-ceiling shelves like transparent volumes organised in a delicious Dewey Decimal System. House music pulses discreetly from the speakers, cultivating a smooth, romantic undertone. It’s no wonder this place was booked solid for Valentine’s Day.
Pickle KL Menu
We visited Pickle the week of its first anniversary to try a variety of items from the eagerly anticipated “Pickle Menu 2.0”. Like its predecessor, the new menu highlights sustainable ingredients and modern French techniques that deliver sophisticated dishes to the masses at a reasonable price point. The three set menus feature four starters, four mains, and two desserts.
“Feed Me,” the principal tasting menu (RM 220) includes Pickle 2.0 showstoppers such as Beef Tartare, Hokkaido Scallop Ceviche, Chicken Vol Au Vent, and Boeuf Tornedos. “Vegetarian” (RM 180) provides innovative options for the plant-based crowd. “Alternative” (RM 200) is for the Pickle regulars who have already sampled the greatest hits and are interested in some new releases. “Alternative” is for the real Pickleheads.
In addition to the three set menus, Pickle now offers an extensive a la carte menu for those who prefer to choose their own adventure. Exclusive items include Fried Sweetbreads with Gribiche and Shishito, as well as the famed Cinnamon Beignets from last year’s menu.
We were thrilled to try a curated selection of dishes handpicked by Chef Danial himself. Let’s call it the “Yum” menu. While the portions are meant for tasting, sized for three-to-four bites per dish, the intense flavors and richness of the dishes left us thoroughly satisfied.
Wine List
Selma, Pickle’s maître d’ extraordinaire, kept our wine glasses full and our curiosity peaked as she provided vivid descriptions of the dishes as they came out. A refreshing bottle of French Chardonnay, Domaine Albert Bichot Chablis, was chosen to compliment the French influenced meal. Its vibrant acidity cut through the richness of the sauces and meats, and fruity hints of green apple, white peach, and flinty minerality inspired lively banter as we moved through the courses.
To Start
The meal kicked off with a couple slices of Milk Loaf with Seasonal Butter (RM 30). A delicate, golden crust encompassed an airy crumb, which retained a bit of density and chew. The orange-scented, cranberry-speckled butter had a touch of sweet acidity. It was a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous sourdoughs of contemporary bread courses.
A quartet of signature starters soon arrived, each more intriguing than the last. The unassuming Lacto Fermented Tomato (RM 35) was breathtaking. This was no ordinary tomato. Marinated in an ambrosia of shitake mushrooms and Malaysia’s beloved asam boi (salted plum), it was a pure umami bomb. Pickled snake fruit (salak) added an element of mystery, and a sprinkle of buckwheat provided a toasty contrast. Some of our party declared this to be the dish of the night.
The Sunchoke Espuma with Pear Compote (RM 35) was next up. Espuma is a vegetable-based foam, created by pouring a stabilised liquid into a gas-pressurised siphon to incorporate air. Made famous by Ferran Adrià, the father of molecular gastronomy, creating espuma takes serious culinary chops; you can’t just whip something like this up after work. The chestnut-like earthiness of the sunchoke paired with the subtly sweet pear compote and drops of soy fluid gel reminded me of my mother’s butternut squash soup. Combining ingredients and techniques in a way that was brand new yet so comforting demonstrates the thoughtfulness and care that Chef Danial puts into every dish.
The Hokkaido Scallop Ceviche with Fermented Calamansi (RM 45) featured meaty chunks of scallop surrounded by gems of crisp cucumber and dots of fiery chilli. Bright, acidic, and slightly spicy, this dish combined the chef’s fond memories of Peru with traditional Southeast Asian flavours.
Rounding out the stellar starters was the Striped Jack with Citrus Soy and Wasabi (RM 45). Like a refined version of cured mackerel sashimi, this dish showcased the succulence and richness of the meat while removing the strong flavours often associated with oily fish. The savoury slices were dressed with wasabi-laden ginger-ponzu soy that was so good we wanted to slurp up every drop.
Palate Cleanser
A skewer of house-pickled yuzu daikon, carrot, and pineapple primed our tastebuds for the main event. It was the soul of Pickle KL on a stick.
Mains
The four chef-selected mains featured the Chicken Vol Au Vent (RM 70), Grilled Prawn with Mandarin Kosho and Lemon Aioli (RM 80), Boeuf Tournedos with Foie Gras and Port Jus (RM 150), and Grilled Peas with Pistachio Crema and Pomegranate Molasses (RM 45).
The Chicken Vol Au Vent redefined comfort food. Don’t you dare call this a chicken pot pie. The puff pastry vessel struggled to contain a luxurious stew of chicken, three-mushroom duxelles, and velvety cream sauce. The countless layers of flaky crust shattered at the sight of my fork. This dish embodies Pickle’s approach to elevated, nostalgic cuisine.
The Boeuf Tournedos were a masterclass in technical perfection. A tenderloin filet, cooked to a rosy medium rare, was crowned with a molten medallion of seared foie gras and finished with a silky Port sauce. Lightly fried chunks of globe artichokes were a delightful alternative pairing for this decadent dish. As a man of simple tastes, this was my favourite dish of the night.
The Grilled Prawn with Mandarin Kosho and Lemon Aioli offered a lively counterpoint to the heavier dishes. Simply cooked, the grilled head-on tiger prawns, harvested from the waters of Kuala Selangor, were brushed with house-made prawn oil to amplify their sweetness and depth. The lemon aioli accentuated the natural flavours of the shrimp, while the mandarin kosho – a fermented zest and chilli paste – offered an optional punch.
Deceptively simple, the Grilled Peas with Pistachio Crema and Pomegranate Molasses revealed unexpected layers of complexity. Fire-roasted over open flame, the nutty sweetness of the peas was enhanced by toothsome pistachio cream and a drizzle of tangy pomegranate molasses. If only all vegetable sides were this satisfying!
Digestif
We were pretty stuffed by the time we finished the mains. Luckily, a tray of zesty Jamu Shots was delivered just as we began melting into a food coma. This vibrant orange elixir, a more intense, citrus-based cousin of Golden Milk, reawakened our senses and gave us an injection of wellness and vitality. We tried to convince Chef Danial to give us a bottle of the stuff, but we had to settle for a second shot at the end of the meal.
Dessert
Two French-inspired desserts with local twists closed the meal. The Tonka Bean Millefeuille featured an airy custard flavoured with tonka bean and coffee, expertly piped onto layers of buttery pastry. Notes of almond, toffee, and vanilla from the tonka bean and slight bitterness from the coffee balanced the softly sweetened dessert. The Chemor 60% Chocolate Mousse showcased single-origin cacao from Chemor, distributed by KL’s own Chocolate Concierge. Olive oil contributed grassy depth, while a pine nut, cranberry, and black sesame-studded Florentine wafer rested atop the cloud of sinful chocolate cream.
This dessert course was truly a bittersweet ending to a remarkable meal.
Cocktail
An impromptu visit from Shin Tseng, the co-founder and architect behind Pickle, offered a glimpse into the innovative cocktails served at Chouchou, Pickle’s little sister (its gherkin, if you will), located at the ground level of the restaurant. Though currently undergoing a transition period, with a curated menu and new mixologist arriving in the coming months, it still managed to surprise us with a warm Clarified Espresso Martini. The top layer called to mind bubble tea cheese foam, and the crystal-clear bottom layer smouldered past our lips.
You may ask, “How does one clarify espresso?”
My answer: Magic – sort of like everything else at Pickle.
Pickle Chinatown Review
In just one year, Pickle has cemented itself as a top-tier date night/special occasion spot in the heart of Chinatown. However, its reasonable pricing and approachable menu suggest it’s also an outstanding casual dining option (as long as you can get a reservation). While the level of technique, quality of ingredients, and thoughtfulness behind the menu is on par with many of the fine dining establishments in KL, it is clear that Chef Danial is trying to bring innovative food to a mainstream audience, and he would be deeply disappointed if Pickle is exclusively frequented by a small group of obsessed foodies. Anyone, from your grandmother to your girlfriend, can come to Pickle and have an experience that will stick with you for quite some time.
Reasons to visit Pickle KL: Pickle is for diners who value sustainability, technical flair, and chef-driven dishes with an element of history and nostalgia, as well as casual diners wishing to expand their palates without venturing entirely outside their comfort zone. It’s great for romantic date nights, special occasions, and even as a weekend alternative to your favourite Italian restaurant. Must-tries are the Lacto Fermented Tomato, Sunchoke Espuma, Boeuf Tournedos and Chocolate Mousse.
Pickle KL
23 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, Chinatown KL
City Centre Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan 50000, Malaysia
+60 14 797 7631
Link to Pickle Dining on Google Maps
www.linktr.ee/pickledining
@pickledining
Pickle KL Opening Hours
Thursday to Monday: 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm (dinner sessions at 6:30 pm & 8:30 pm)
Tuesdays & Wednesdays: Closed
Find more Chinatown KL recommendations here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.