Il Forno Italian Restaurant Hyatt Centric Kuala Lumpur City Centre
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Ivan Chong Han
If you love Italian food, this one’s for you! A new hotspot has arrived at the recently opened Hyatt Centric Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Il Forno, quite simply ‘the oven’ in Italian, is on the 19th floor of the hotel with exceptional views of the city skyline, a menu of Italian recipes, and cosy indoor and al fresco seating.
Il Forno Hyatt Centric Kuala Lumpur City Centre
Friendly staff whisked us up to the 19th floor via express elevator. Our eyes were drawn to a row of glass and stainless steel wine fridges, their bottles twinkling invitingly. Beyond, open shelving lined with books and pottery hinted at the restaurant beyond, creating a sense of anticipation.
While Il Forno impressively accommodates up to 250 diners (it also serves as the hotel’s breakfast area), the expansive space avoids feeling cavernous. The architects have cleverly segmented it into distinct zones: an al fresco terrace with city views for drinks, meals, or snacks; a lively bar area; the main restaurant; and a relaxed lounge for post-meal coffee, late-night drinks, or afternoon tea.
Il Forno’s bar decor blends rustic charm and industrial chic. The exposed brick and structural beams and the over-the-bar shelving painted a vibrant pink, create a striking focal point juxtaposed against the sleek, dark wood of the bar. Oversized pendant lights glow warmly, highlighting the carefully curated display of bottled Italian spirits and glassware. The space feels both intimate and spacious, with comfortable seating options ranging from plush booths to high-top chairs at the bar. All contribute to a lively and inviting atmosphere perfect for enjoying a pre-dinner aperitif or a late-night digestif.
Il Forno Drinks Menu
Il Forno’s wine list offers a well-structured selection, highlighting Italian wines from regions like Veneto and Sicily, which complement Italian cuisine. The list balances popular varietals like Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay with lesser-known options like Garganega and Aglianico. A larger-than-average selection of wines by the glass (five whites and five reds) caters to various preferences and encourages exploration. While Italian selections dominate, international choices from France and Argentina offer broader options.
Although we would enjoy wine with our meal, we started, as one should, with a couple of cocktails, firstly a Negroni Sbagliato (RM 50). Longtime Yum List readers know Monica’s fondness for a classic Negroni, but lately, she’s gravitated towards this lighter or “wrong” version. Il Forno’s rendition showcases the versatility of Cocchi Vermouth di Torino. This renowned Italian vermouth, crafted in Asti from a blend of white wine and a secret infusion of herbs and spices, lends a unique character. Its balanced sweetness, coupled with Campari’s bitterness and the effervescence of Prosecco instead of the traditional gin, creates a lighter, more approachable Negroni.
The Amalfi (RM 50) was a welcome refreshment on another hot KL scorcher. Served in a tall-stemmed wine glass over ice, its pale yellow colour hinted at the crisp, bright flavours to come. This simple yet elegant drink combined the zesty citrus notes of Limoncello Terriderai with the dry bubbles of Prosecco DOCG Brut lengthened with a splash of soda. Garnished with a lemon slice, the Amalfi proved an easy-drinking and thirst-quenching choice.
Il Forno’s open kitchen is a vibrant spectacle, adding an element of culinary theatre to the dining experience. The gleaming stainless steel, accented with warm copper pendant lights, creates a focal point while chefs expertly craft dishes in full view. This transparency offers diners a glimpse into the culinary process, enhancing the anticipation and connection to the food, while the rhythmic clatter of pans and the enticing aromas further stimulate the senses. Gleaming copper pans line open shelves, while sacks of premium Caputo flour—destined for crisp-crusted pizzas—are stacked below. The kitchen’s centrepiece, an imported Italian pizza oven “Il Forno” with a copper hood, promises warmth and the aroma of freshly baked pizzas.
Italian Food Menu
Antipasti
Our antipasti was paired with a glass of Chateau Miraval Rosé (RM 50), a personal favourite. This pale, salmon-pink Provençal wine has delicate aromas of fresh red fruits, citrus blossoms, and a hint of minerality. It was bone-dry and crisp on the palate, with refreshing acidity and flavours of strawberry, white peach, and a subtle herbaceous note. Now, this isn’t just any rosé. It hails from the 1,200-acre estate once owned by none other than Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. They bought the place back in 2008 and, along with the esteemed Perrin family of Rhone Valley fame, released their first vintage in 2012 to much fanfare. Even after their split in 2016, they kept the wine flowing together until their final divorce in 2019.
The antipasti arrived, and first impressions indicated a promising start to the meal. First up was the Insalata Misticanza (RM 48/RM 68). I’m a huge fan of a good salad, and this one didn’t disappoint. A veritable cornucopia of crisp butterhead, cos, endive, and radicchio – the bitter notes of the latter two a welcome counterpoint – mingled with chunks of cucumber, red onion, cherry tomatoes, artichoke, Kalamata olives, and slivers of gloriously salty Gran Padano. All dressed in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette, it was the kind of salad I could happily devour as a main course. Indeed, both Monica and I found ourselves praising the thoughtful selection of leaves and the interplay of textures and flavours, a credit to someone in the kitchen who understands that a salad can be so much more than just rabbit food.
We’d initially set our sights on the Carpaccio di Ricciola, but culinary fate intervened. Freshness, it seems, is a non-negotiable here, and they’d simply run out – a disappointment, perhaps, but a sign of their commitment to quality. It merely means a return visit is in order. However, our fallback, the Burrata d’Andria (RM 78), proved a more than worthy understudy. This was, and I don’t say this lightly, some of the creamiest burrata I’ve encountered in a long while. The luscious, creamy centre oozed invitingly amongst the crisp heirloom tomatoes, mingling beautifully with the generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Simplicity itself, and all the better for it. A reminder that when ingredients are this good, less is most definitely more.
The Polpo Alla Griglia (RM 49/RM 70) followed. Octopus, as we all know, can be a culinary gamble. This, however, was a winner. Perfectly grilled, the flesh was meltingly soft, not a hint of rubberiness. A lovely char added a subtle smokiness, complementing the octopus’s delicate sweetness. Pan-roasted fennel provided a pleasant anise note, a vibrant tomato salsa a touch of acidity, and a fresh herb salad a welcome lightness—a well-composed dish, showcasing a good grasp of flavour and texture.
Il Forno Artisnal Pasta
For our pasta course, we opted for a glass of Donnafugata Anthilia Bianco (RM 48), a refreshing Sicilian white wine bursting with aromas of citrus, white flowers, and a touch of minerality. Crisp and dry on the palate with lively acidity, it finishes with a lingering freshness.
This versatile wine paired beautifully with the Fusili Alla Siciliana (RM 45 for one person, RM 67 for two), which featured freshly made fusilli egg pasta enveloped in a rich plum tomato sauce that sang with flavour. A subtle hint of chilli excited the taste buds, leaving a pleasant warmth that lingered on the tongue. Unctuous chunks of fried eggplant and house-made ricotta cheese balanced the dish. This hearty and satisfying vegetarian option can be enjoyed as a main course for one or shared amongst friends as part of a larger meal.
The Risotto con Porcini e Tartufo Nero (RM 110 for one person, RM 150 for two) was a clear winner as the dish of the day for me. Made with Italian Carnaroli rice, it boasted a generous helping of seasonal mushrooms, all simmered to perfection in a flavorful porcini broth. The final touch—a decadent blanket of finely shaved black truffle—elevated the dish to an umami flavour bomb. A slight warning, however, It’s the kind of dish you want to hoard, to keep all to yourself, away from the prying forks of your dining companions. Greedy, I know, but it was that good.
Pizza
We plumped for a glass of Cafaggio Sangiovese, Chianti Classico DOCG (RM 50) to accompany our pizza. This Chianti Classico from Tuscany is a classic Sangiovese with aromas of black cherry, plum, and leather, complemented by hints of herbs and spices. It offers bright acidity, firm tannins, and a balanced profile, making it an ideal accompaniment for tomato-based pasta dishes and pizza.
We eagerly awaited the Margherita Pizza (RM 39 for 9 inches or RM 48 for 12 inches), which emerged sizzling from the magnificent Italian oven that commands attention in Chef de Cuisine Christian Chan’s kitchen. As I’ve often noted, the Margherita is the ultimate test of pizza, showcasing the quality of ingredients and their preparation, as there are no elaborate toppings to mask any shortcomings. This pizza was a tasty blend of premium Caputo flour, yeast, salt, and water, topped with a rich, house-made San Marzano tomato sauce. These tomatoes, known for their thick, firm walls, fewer seeds, reduced moisture, and more intense flavour, were paired with a generous helping of mozzarella cheese. The result was superb: a crisp outer crust yielded a soft, chewy centre. To make such a delicious pizza, the dough rests for 36 hours, a marked contrast with the mere 90 seconds it took for the 430-degree oven to work its magic.
Main Courses
To accompany our upcoming fish, we chose a glass of Domaine Albert Bichot Chablis (RM 88), a classic expression of Burgundy’s Chardonnay, known for its crisp acidity and minerality. The wine’s high acidity and citrus notes make it an excellent pairing for baked cod, cutting through the fish’s richness while complementing its delicate flavour.
This leads me to the dish I’d most anticipated from the menu, the Filetto di Merluzzo alla Livornese (RM 135). This Mediterranean classic, with variations found throughout the countries bordering that sea, featured a generous portion of pristine white cod bathed in a rich cherry tomato sauce, accompanied by hearty chunks of potato and the salty bursts of flavour from black Gaeta olives and capers. Finished with chopped parsley and white wine, the dish did not disappoint in its flavours, but I felt the skin could have been crisped up for a bit of textural interest. A minor quibble, perhaps.
For the carnivores among our readers who might have thought we were neglecting the meatier side of the menu, the final main course, Agnello alla Griglia (RM 160), certainly delivered. These grilled lamb chops were spot on: charred on the outside and pink and juicy on the inside. They were paired with artichokes and a mint salsa verde—a classic combination executed flawlessly.
We paired the succulent chops with a glass of Cusumano Nero d’Avola (RM 88), a Sicilian red wine known for its dark fruit flavours and earthy notes, with aromas of black cherry, plum, and blackberry, along with hints of liquorice and spice. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with smooth tannins and balanced acidity. This wine’s fruit-forward character and subtle spice made it an excellent pairing for our lamb chops. The wine’s moderate tannins didn’t overpower the lamb, while its acidity cut through the meat’s richness.
Dessert
We indulged in the Profitteroli Amarena Fabbri (RM 48) to finish. This dessert featured Fabbri cherries—made from carefully selected black cherries pitted and semi-candied in syrup according to a family recipe dating back to 1915—alongside soft vanilla ice cream. The Profitteroli offered a sophisticated take on a childhood favourite, reimagining the classic ice cream sandwich. Instead of the usual heavier custard or crème diplomat filling, these profiteroles were filled with lighter, melt-in-your-mouth ice cream.
While I’ve heard excellent coffee is available, one of our party (who shall remain nameless) opted for the classic Espresso Martini (RM 50) to end the meal. Made with Lavazza espresso, coffee liqueur, and a touch of sugar syrup, it arrived in a martini glass adorned with coffee beans atop a luxurious creamy foam—the first sip brought to mind the creamy, comforting notes of Irish Baileys liqueur.
Il Forno Review
Il Forno isn’t just a hotel restaurant; it’s a destination in its own right. The food is good, the atmosphere is lively, and the service is efficient and friendly. It’s a place where you can relax, enjoy a good glass of wine (and they have a decent selection), and savour the flavours of Italy—highly recommended.
Reasons to visit Il Forno Italian Restaurant: The Insalata Misticanza stood out with its wonderfully fresh flavours. The Negroni Sbagliato was also a highlight. It was expertly prepared and received Monica’s seal of approval. However, the star of the show was the Risotto con Porcini, a dish so delicious that it is tempting to return to savour it on my own without having to share it!
Il Forno Italian Restaurant
Hyatt Centric Kuala Lumpur City Centre
Level 19, 17, Jalan Sultan Ismail
50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Il Forno on Google Maps
www.hyatt.com/hyatt-centric/kulct-hyatt-centric-city-centre-kuala-lumpur/dining
+6 012 628 9421
Il Forno Opening Hours
Daily: 12 pm to 10 pm
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