Gai Express by Darren Chin TTDI – Northern Chiang Mai Street Food
Words: Karen Santosuosso
Photos: Han Sen Hau
If you’ve flown Malaysia Airlines recently, chances are you’ve seen Chef Darren Chin’s charming smile on their promos for direct flights to Chiang Mai from Kuala Lumpur. The chef leading Michelin-starred DC Restaurant has been making the rounds of Thailand recently to learn more about the confluence of cultures and flavours in the north. His wife Nana is from Chiang Mai, so there’s also a personal connection to Thailand. After achieving much success with their joint effort at Gai in their upstairs space in the TTDI neighbourhood, Darren and Nana have opened Gai Express in their downstairs space, serving Chiang Mai street food rooted in extensive research and multicultural values with Michelin-style flair.
Much of the Gai Express team has already been working with Chef Darren’s culinary empire, so they’re adept at providing excellent service and attention to detail. Sitting at one of Gai Express’s outdoor tables feels like a more relaxed experience – sabai sabai. Darren tells us that he’s excited to showcase the cross-cultural recipes he’s learnt from his time in Thailand, which are influenced by ancient migrant recipes from the Silk Road.
Gai Express by Darren Chin TTDI Menu
Appetisers
There are a bunch of satisfyingly crunchy fried appetisers made with fresh ingredients at Gai Express. We try the Crispy Fish Skins (RM 12), Deep-fried Squid in Fragrant Garlic (RM 35), Fried Chicken Wings (RM 28), Mix Spring Rolls (RM 25) and Super Premium Crab Balls (RM 45). The appetisers are served with a slightly sweet and spicy Thai chilli sauce, perfect for dunking the fried delights into. I enjoy the crispy fried kaffir lime leaf and crunchy garlic that comes with the chicken wings and juicy squid. My favourite of the fried appetisers, though, are the crab balls. Using jumbo lump crab meat wrapped in beancurd skin, these crab balls are like little bundles of joy.
Along with the appetisers, the Assortment of Fish Balls and Fish Cakes (RM 25) is served with a spicy nam jim sauce. The fish balls are imported directly from Bangkok for authenticity, and we are all impressed with the depth of flavour that is achieved in the broth. Each spoonful is comforting and aromatic.
Noodle Soups at Gai Express
Having spent time in the Hmong village of Doi Pui, discovering a Muslim khao soi beef recipe from the famed Uncle Surin, Chef Darren was inspired to learn a similar recipe and share it with the khao soi lovers of Kuala Lumpur. He says, “With the polarised world that we live in nowadays, I was inspired by multicultural traditions and how the locals could live organically in this diverse way.”
We start with the Tender Braised Beef Khao Soi (RM 44) and are instantly slurping seconds. A deep flavour comes from the coconut milk, braised beef and curry, and a strong kick of chilli, spice, and everything nice. The spice is almost intoxicating and we can’t stop going in for more of the delicious red broth. The noodles are chewy, while the beef is fall-off-the-bone tender. We also dunk our spoons and chopsticks into the Chicken Khao Soi (RM 38), a local staple in Chiang Mai, and the khao soi that I am used to. The curry broth has a spice profile similar to that of the beef option but with a slightly different taste from the free-range chicken. The tender braised beef is the winner for me!
If you’ve been to Thailand, you’ll know that another staple (often eaten for breakfast) is nourishing keuy teow soup. We taste the Bangkok-style Thai Kuey Teow with Tender Braised Beef (RM 45). Similar to the Fish Ball appetiser, the broth is deeply aromatic. I think this would be the perfect meal if you’re feeling a bit under the weather. The braised daikon and pickles are a nice fermented element in the dish and are complemented with a fresh squeeze of lime.
Drinks & Desserts Menu
We’ve worked up a sweat between all these deliciously fried snacks and hot, spiced broths. Luckily, we have some sweet drinks to cool us down. We start with the classic Thai Iced Milk Tea (RM 15) as well as an Iced Matcha Green Tea (RM 15), both doing a wonderful job of cutting the spice of the khao soi curries. The Red Dragonfruit Honey Smoothie (RM 18) has a playful pop of colour and Han Sen reports it is also delightfully sweet and refreshing. Monica, the one who generally avoids anything sweet and sugary, opts for a cooling fresh Coconut (RM 18).
Ah, I’m feeling like I’ve fully teleported to Thailand now, that is… til we move into the air-conditioning. Chef Darren beckons us in for some dessert, and we end on a high note. The Red Rubies (RM 18) consist of sweet tapioca and water chestnuts that’re boiled down to achieve a uniquely crunchy yet chewy consistency, served along with ripe jackfruit, coconut milk and fresh shaved ice. My favourite, though, is the Khnom Piak Poon (RM 10), a smooth pandan pudding with coconut cream and a dash of salt. This one deserves the best compliment for a dessert that my Asian grandma might give – it is not too sweet.
Reasons to visit Gai Express by Darren Chin TTDI: get a taste of Darren Chin’s Michelin-worthy cuisine, a chef’s take on Chiang Mai street food; everything is good here but don’t leave without trying the halal-ingredient recipe of Tender Braised Beef Khao Soi.
Gai Express by Darren Chin TTDI
No. 26 Ground Floor, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Gai Express on Google Maps
@gai.express
+60 11 2938 3809
Gai Express by Darren Chin Opening Hours
Daily: 12-9 pm (closed Mondays)
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