La Pané Pizza Restaurant, Taman Melawati
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Matt Wehner
Monica has long been a fan of Miss Ellie Tea House in the tranquil neighbourhood of Taman Melawati. Back when the International School of Kuala Lumpur had its elementary campus just a few blocks away, the cafe was popular among expats and locals. With its antique-filled interior, lush garden entrance, and welcoming family atmosphere, it’s an escape from the city’s hustle. The tasty food there was prepared by Chef Justin Wong, who joked that his employer really was the big boss, as the proprietor was his mum, Nancy! Miss Ellie Tea House continues to go from strength to strength, but now Chef Justin has decided to strike out on his own, but not very far from his doting mother’s eye, as his smart new pizza restaurant La Pané, which boasts ‘Always 8 Great Pizzas!’ is located directly above his mother’s business!
Pizza Restaurant – Taman Melawati
The entrance to La Pané is located to the right of Miss Ellie Tea House. As you walk past the lush greenery, you might notice a tabby cat of indeterminate age perched by the door of the teahouse, seemingly keeping an eye on the new business that has appeared on the first floor. The cat has been a fixture at Miss Ellie’s for 12 years, and she seems to be taking ownership of the new arrival, too.
As you ascend the stairs, pay attention to the framed artworks on the left side of the stairwell that have been subtly altered to insert pizza into nearly every historic picture, adding a playful touch to the space.
While Miss Ellie Tea House is furnished in a charming, eclectic style that could be mistaken for a quaint antique store, the interior of La Pané is sleek and uncluttered, reflecting the tastes of a different generation. Polished concrete floors and a large concrete bench seat down the restaurant’s back wall contrast with mid-century classic furniture, wooden chairs, tables and a side cabinet that would not be out of place in fashionable furniture stores in Denmark, Singapore or France. We were told that the rustic, roughly plastered back wall is meant to echo the ‘Klang Gates Quartz Ridge’, the longest quartz ridge in the world, stretching over 14 spectacular kilometres. It can be seen through the restaurant’s panoramic window, looming high above the shophouses across the street. Beneath it, emerald green ceramic tiles provide a back to the concrete bench seat, topped with stylish grey fabric cushions.
In the middle of the restaurant, guests are treated to a peek into the beating heart of the establishment, where skilful kitchen staff hand stretch the sourdough that has been fermented for at least 24 hours using a starter that Justin smuggled back from England, said to be from a sourdough yeast culture that is over 100 years old! Perfecting the right amount of fermentation time to achieve a crunchy crust that was not too tough took some trial and error, but Justin said that he had it cracked, and soon, we would be the judges of whether he was telling the truth.
When Chef Justin finally found the perfect spot for La Pané – above the beloved Miss Ellie Tea House – he envisioned creating healthy, affordable pizzas focusing on fresh, minimally processed ingredients. However, he also wanted food that would be affordable; the highly processed mozzarella that you see on sale wouldn’t be good enough, and air-flown mozzarella, whilst of better quality, would mean the costs escalated prohibitively. Therefore, he opted to make his pizzas with creamy ricotta cheese that he makes in-house, ensuring both quality and value. But La Pané is also about community. Justin is turning the space into a gallery for local artists, with plans to donate commissions from any sales to local organisations. This commitment to quality and community makes La Pané a welcome addition to Taman Melawati.
The name “La Pané” is a clever fusion of the restaurant’s 8A address (“lapan” meaning “eight” in Malay) and the Italian word for bread, “pane.” (Though the mysterious addition of a French accent remains a puzzle!) But what caught our eye was their bold slogan: “Always 8 Great Pizzas.” Challenge accepted, La Pané! The Yum List is on a mission to uncover the truth behind this claim, one delicious slice at a time.
La Pané Pizza Menu
We start with a true classic, the Margherita (RM 32). Our waiter, Lena, told us that this pizza was also the most popular with customers. A rich tomato marinara sauce was generously spread across expertly hand-stretched sourdough, topped with creamy house-made ricotta cheese and a drizzle of olive oil and after a quick trip to the fiery Ooni oven, the pizza emerged, steaming hot dressed with vibrant green fresh basil leaves. The crust had a delicious crisp char and an open, airy texture, indicating a well-fermented sourdough. Even better? It stayed wonderfully soft in the centre and didn’t turn rock-hard as it cooled.
Justin has been tweaking his recipe since he opened the doors in May. He said he has quite a few elderly and very young pizza lovers among his customers and wants them all to enjoy each bite. No discarded crusts here! Every mouthful was as delicious as the last. With this pizza, there is no place to hide, no additional toppings or frills to hide behind or distract from the ingredients’ quality, preparation handling, and cooking. If this was the most ‘basic’ of the pizzas, I knew we were in for a fantastic experience.
In addition to the tasty Margherita, I can recommend another slice to vegetarian diners, La Pané’s Truffle Pizza (RM 50), which is bursting with flavour. The combination of earthy mushrooms, decadent black truffle béchamel, ricotta, and tangy balsamic vinegar is unexpected and utterly addictive. Each bite is an eruption of textures and tastes, from the crisp crust to the tender mushrooms. This pizza proves that vegetarian doesn’t have to mean boring!
Even the pizza purists are starting to embrace pineapple. In January of this year, the renowned Italian ‘Pizza Maestro’ Gino Sorbillo made the news by adding the ingredient many purists have long said has no place on a pizza. What ingredient is that? The ‘dreaded’ pineapple, of course. He said he did it to make a point that no recipe is truly set in stone, and no ingredient is bad if handled and used correctly. As he has 21 outlets worldwide, he must know a thing or two. At La Pané, Justin has perhaps gone a little further with his take on the Hawaiian pizza with their Sunshine Chicken (RM 35). He told us it was like a Hawaiian but happier!
Instead of the usual ham, he has substituted freshly cooked chicken (not processed chicken ‘ham’) and fresh pineapple, not canned, as that makes for a soggy pizza. The ‘sunshine’ in the name of pizza comes from his addition of a house-made apricot compote. The pizza was held together with a generous smothering of fior di latte (a mild and creamy cheese like mozzarella, only made with cow’s milk rather than buffalo), made for a very tasty pizza that might convert even the most staunch pineapple-haters. But don’t take our word for it – try it yourself and join the debate!
The Prawn Pizza (RM 49) arrived with a flourish, practically overflowing with plump, juicy prawns still steaming from the oven. Justin emphasised that these prawns were the stars of the show, carrying the weight of flavour. The aroma of fresh seafood, nestled on a bed of creamy fior di latte, mingled with the tangy scent of lime and the subtle heat of black pepper. Given the expense of the ingredient, it was cooked perfectly; all too often, I’ve had prawns appear at my table like hard little rubber bullets and cast an internal tear that a careless chef has ruined them by leaving them under too much heat for too long. Here, they have been given the expert treatment they deserve and terrific value at this price.
Continuing with seafood, anchovies are another pizza topping that can be very polarising. People who love anchovies want lots and lots of them, and those who don’t like them would probably prefer them not to be even in the same room as one, let alone find one on top of their pizza. If you are one of the former people, you won’t be disappointed at La Pané’s Anchovy Pizza (RM 39,) which has tons of these tiny little salty flavour explosions from the sea. In this case, the sleek little fillets are Spanish, swimming over a creamy sea of fior di latte and a salsa verde made with coriander and olive oil for freshness. As an anchovy lover myself, I thought it was terrific.
The “Lapan” (RM 46) pizza is a cheese lover’s dream. This clever wordplay (Lapan meaning “eight” in Malay) features not just one, not two, but eight different cheeses. When pressed, Justin, the owner, had a momentary lapse trying to recall all eight (we forgive him, it’s a lot of cheese!), but ultimately revealed the delicious lineup: house-made ricotta, Grana Padano, Parmesan, white cheddar, blue cheese, red cheddar, mozzarella, and smoked scamorza.
Instead of being a homogenous blend, each cheese is strategically placed, ensuring a unique experience with every bite. This pizza is like a delicious cheese board that landed in a pizza oven! The addition of quince pearls and maple-glazed pecans provides a delightful, sweet and crunchy counterpoint to all that cheesy goodness. While undeniably delicious, the Lapan is nonetheless a rich experience. This is a pizza best shared with friends unless you’re a true cheese fanatic ready to tackle this cheese monster solo!
If you enjoy a meaty pizza, La Pané hasn’t forgotten about you. Our final duo of pizzas would satisfy the heartiest of appetites. The Angus (RM 50) has what looks like an entire Australian Black Angus Skirt Steak, finely sliced and glistening on top of moist layers of marinara sauce and ricotta cheese. I can’t confirm, however, that it was a whole steak as we ate it too quickly for any attempts to reassemble it. The sweetness of the roast onions and the acidity from the roast cherry tomato made this a very moreish slice. I found the steak very tender and yielding as I bit into it.
I appreciated that at La Pané, you are given a choice of meat for their Pepperoni Pizza (RM 36). Either beef or chicken pepperoni sausage is available; personally, I think the beef has a more robust flavour that is closer to the real thing, although some friends prefer the milder taste of chicken. We plumped for the beef variety; on top of that delicious sourdough crust, there was no shortage of those tasty meaty discs, their warm lingering spicy heat built with each bite, with a pleasant tingling on the tongue as they released its oils onto my tongue. Pepperoni is one of my go-to pizza choices, and this one didn’t disappoint. Usually, I don’t go for a pizza with a lot of sweetness. Still, I thought the judicious amount of honey drizzled on this pizza helped soften the heat from the pepperoni and the liberal sprinkling of jalapeño peppers.
Drinks Menu & Prices
In this soft launch phase, La Pané is still building its drinks menu, and items may change from those we sampled. At the time of our visit, as well as Illy coffees and a selection of fruit and black teas, they had four different flavours of kombucha, made in Johor by a trusted supplier who worked with Justin to come up with their blends and flavours for his restaurant. We sampled the Kombucha Earl Grey Cinnamon (RM 15) and the Chrysanthemum (RM 15). Monica and I are big fans of this healthy probiotic beverage, which has a pretty stellar reputation in the world of health and wellness. It’s said to promote digestion and gut health, and after sampling eight pizzas, albeit delicious ones, this was a great way to give our digestive microbes a helping hand. The Earl Grey Cinnamon was my favourite from the two we sampled as it was an unusual flavour I’d not seen anywhere else. Both were slightly effervescent and delicious, however.
La Pané Review
La Pané is a pleasant escape in picturesque Taman Melawati, offering delicious handcrafted pizzas with fresh ingredients and creative toppings. Chef Justin’s passion for quality and community shines through in every aspect of this charming pizzeria. I’m still not entirely sure whether Nancy is keeping a watchful eye on her son starting his business above or whether he is the dutiful son keeping a loving eye on his mother below; perhaps it’s a little of both, what’s for sure is it’s incredibly charming. La Pané is an excellent choice to escape the city and enjoy delicious, handcrafted pizzas. Whether you’re a vegetarian, a meat lover, or a cheese fanatic, La Pané has something to satisfy every craving. As for that bold claim ‘Always 8 Great Pizzas’, as far as The Yum List’s visit went, we’d have to agree!
Reasons to visit La Pané: The pizzas were all tasty and of excellent value, but the Anchovy and the Angus were the winners for me. If you are there with a few friends sharing pizzas, I’d recommend you try the Lapan, as I think it undoubtedly is the cheesiest pizza I’ve ever eaten. Grab a seat at the front of the restaurant and take in those fantastic views of the Gombak Selangor Quartz Ridge; it is as spectacular as the pizzas.
La Pané – Pizza Restaurant Melawati
8A, Jalan H 3, Taman Melawati,
53100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to La Pané on Google Maps
www.facebook.com/lapane.pizza/
+60 10-872 7851
*Limited street parking – you can usually find a spot if you drive around the block
**Meat-free/ vegetarian options
**Child-friendly with high chairs & a casual setting but not a place for children to tear around unsupervised
La Pané Opening Hours
Tuesday to Sunday: 12-3 pm & 5-10 pm
Monday: Closed
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