The Writer’s Bar & Rumari’s 7-Step Journey – Raffles Bali
Monica Tindall
Bali is a gourmet paradise, constantly inundated with hot new openings and blessed with recognised chefs from around the globe. It’s easy to get lost in the shuffle. However, The Writer’s Bar and Rumari at Raffles Bali left such an impression that I’m eager to return for a repeat visit.
The Writer’s Bar
The open reception deck of Raffles Bali is home to The Writer’s Bar and Rumari restaurant. The pair go hand-in-hand for a perfect evening out. We begin at The Writer’s Bar with a cocktail and mocktail. Bartender Jack shakes me a gin, lemongrass cordial and fresh lemon juice, which is light with a gentle tang. Caning’s booze-free bevvie is a sweet mix of apple, grenadine and fresh lemon juice. Appetites are whet, and we are ready to begin.
The bar is a dedication to literary legends such as Kipling, Maugham, and Conrad, who all stayed for extended periods at Raffles Singapore in the early 20th Century. Looking over the treetops and bay as the sky turns golden, listening to the birds go home to rest while the cicadas and frogs come out to play, and watching the staff light candles, turning pathways aglow, I imagine writers at Raffles Bali could, too, find much inspiration.
Rumari 7-Step Journey
This evening, Chef Gaetan Biesuz and his team have curated a 7-Step Journey (IDR 1 900++) presented on a map showcasing where the primary ingredient in each course is from. We get an innovative intro to the concept of progressive Southeast Asian cuisine with an origami paper fortune teller. Each opening of the fold reveals a different fact about the restaurant, including the origin of the name, the source of ingredients, and the team taking care of us. Finalising the introduction is a hand-washing ceremony using frangipani water.
Ikhsan, mixologist and sommelier, welcomes us with a Bimantara cocktail (meaning strong soul in Sanskrit). From a local distiller, East Indies Archipelago Gin bases the lemongrass cordial, Thai basil, fresh pineapple juice and soda water mix. It’s a great palate opener.
The Writer’s Bar & Rumari Wine List
Rumari’s wine list boasts Krug Ambassade status, the only one in Indonesia, and has earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for three years running. The wine library has a good range of old world, new world, entry-level and premium labels. Alternatively, guests can leave the pairing in the hands of the sommelier for the 7-Step Journey, with a classic wine pairing for IDR 1 950 000++ or IDR 4 400 000++ for a premium selection.
Amuse-bouche
The amuse-bouche of four small bites open all corners of our palates. The first is a bright, crunchy, slightly sour rojak (southeast Asian salad)-inspired tart. Next is ruby red snapper ceviche, seasoned with cemcem leaf that has a natural acidity and a little corn for sweetness. Tacito is the cutest little taco ever, on a house-made corn shell stuffed with pulled pork and aromatic Balinese spices. Lastly, a steamed bun is filled with beef rendang and made with Indonesian wagyu short ribs with a Rendang chip on top, adding a kick of spice.
Bread
The sourdough bread course has a lovely citrus aroma thanks to kaffir lime. Reminiscent of a deconstructed satay sauce, the crushed peanuts paste for dipping is in the shape of a honeycomb. On top, there’s sambal, soya sauce, and kaffir lime gel. It’s like a grown-up version of peanut butter.
West Sumatra
A wonderfully refreshing mud crab salad is the official first course in the 7-step Journey. The sweet, flaky crab flesh and green mango are covered with a fan of jicama. On top, there are thin lines of green chilli, fresh herbs and sambal gels. It’s finished off tableside with a spoon of pale pink ginger flower granite. Yum. Citrus, especially lime, in the 2017 Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend from Western Australia, does particularly well with the crab.
Jimbaran
As we travel around the island on the back of ingredients, we return to Rumari’s doorstep, Jimbaran, for the tuna in the second course. Ahi tuna is gently smoked with coconut husk and partnered with sambal matah (a Balinese raw condiment with chilli, lemongrass, garlic and kaffir lime leaves). The oil from the sambal is used to make a Hollandaise emulsion, which is scooped alongside the small tower of tuna. A green tangle of cemcem leaves on top gifts a sour finish, which is the perfect complement to fish. The 2021 Trimbach Riesling, Alsace, France wine mate mirrors the dish’s bouquet of citrus, white flowers, and minerals. It’s light-bodied with a long, dry finish.
Sibang
The sequence increases in intensity with the third course. Fresh-water crayfish from a village in Bali’s north are used for the silky steamed custard, chawanmushi. The shells are used for stock, and the tail is pan-seared. A thin glaze-like sauce of heirloom tomatoes and chilli is on the surface. The Padang recipe is sweet, sour, and spicy. This style of sauce is often used in Sumatra with mud crab, much like Singapore’s chilli crab, but it is sweeter and glasslike in appearance. A full-bodied Chardonnay from Napa Valley, the 2020 Beringer Vineyards Luminous Chardonnay accompanies the custard. It has a touch too much oak for my palate, but the fruit and vanilla work well with the spice.
Kedonganan
In Kedonganan, between the airport and Jimbaran, is one of the biggest fish markets in Bali and the origin of the next primary ingredient, octopus. The octopus is grilled until caramelised around the edges and tender within. It comes with soft eggplant seasoned with balado (a popular Indonesian spice mixture) and Balinese pork sausage. Finely shaved fried garlic lingers in the mouth, sticking to the teeth like candy and mirroring the natural converted sugars of the grill. Maison Louis Latour’s 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé, a Chardonnay from Burgundy’s Maconnais, offers citrus and stone fruit with a touch of cream, perfect for pairing with this seafood dish.
South Sulawesi
Chef leads us on a detour from the 7-step to the 9-step Journey with a konro-spiced (Indonesian rib sauce) wagyu from a producer in Sulawesi island. They bring in the calves from Japan and then raise them according to tradition. It’s a unique presentation that could easily be mistaken for a chocolate bar with its deep, dark glaze looking like tempered chocolate with a drizzle of corn sauce mimicking caramel. There’s a corn fritter on the side with a stripe of corn puree. It’s the peak of the savoury courses, a perfect ascent in intensity and a big finish before we linger off into dessert. Bold fruit flavours like blackberry stand up to the richness of beef in the 2020 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Reserve, Margaux, France. At the same time, the tannins cut through the fat in the meat, creating a balanced and pleasant wine and beef combo.
Karangasem
Pre-dessert is inspired both by Bali and Chef Gaetan’s grandma. Chef was born in France to an Italian father and mother from Catalunya. When his Spanish grandma made arroz con leche (rice pudding) for the grandchildren, she always added caramel, her secret recipe. Chef, as a boy, would scrape the edges of the bowl, licking up the caramel. He wants guests to do the same with this vanilla ice cream surrounded by rice crispies and topped with arak gel and stingless bee honey. We’re advised to scrape the edges of the bowl where puffed rice is stuck with caramel and scoop up a bit of everything in one spoon. It’s sweet and engenders a warm nostalgia for childhood.
Tabanan
Chef advises us not to panic when our eyes widen at the Tabanan dessert. It looks large but is deceptively light and pleasantly not sugary. Thanks to the espuma technique, only two ingredients are needed to make this beautifully aerated mousse – dark chocolate and water. When it hits our tongues, the mousse quickly melts, leaving unadulterated quality chocolate. Kueh lapis – thousand-layer cake – makes a thin and textural top, and nougatine of cashew nuts crumble, and cashew leaf ice cream balance the smooth creaminess with a light crunch. It’s a fantastic finale.
We find it best to leave the final wine pairing, 2022 Fantinel One & Only Millesimato, Italy, until the petite four. The Prosecco DOC Brut’s fresh, floral aromas and lively acidity serve well as a palate freshener. Instead, we enjoy the chocolate with the last few sips of the preceding red.
Petite Four
The petite four finale at Rumari is a trio of handcrafted treats: tangy passionfruit sorbet straight from the shell, delightful cekodok fritters (banana), and a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth pie susu (Balinese milk custard tart). Perfect!
We return full circle to East Indies distillery with a digestive of Nusantara Cold Brew Spice Islands Coffee Liqueur. Made with 100% Arabica from four regions Toraja, Java, Sumatra and Kintamani, it’s a bitter-sweet conclusion.
The Writer’s Bar & Rumari Review
If you’re looking for a place for a special night out, an experience to wow a loved one or create unforgettable memories, then The Writer’s Bar and Rumari are a flawless combo. Breathe in the crisp air and stunning views from the open-walled hilltop verandah. Dine on an exceptionally well-crafted degustation menu, and enjoy a tipple pre (or post) dinner.
Reasons to visit The Writer’s Bar & Rumari: incredible views – it’s especially pretty at sunset; the freshest of air thanks to the forest and the sea; the perfect sequence is a sundowner at The Writer’s Bar followed by dinner at Rumari; the 7-Step Journey is an excellent choice for those already burdened with too many decisions – leave it in the hands of the experts.
The Writer’s Bar & Rumari – Raffles Bali
Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera 1A Jimbaran
Badung, Bali 80361, Indonesia
+62 361 201 5800 [email protected]
@raffles_bali
Link to Raffles Bali on Google Maps
*Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free menus available with advance booking
The Writer’s Bar Opening Hours
Daily: 12 pm – 12 am
Rumari Opening Hours
Daily: 6:30 am – 10:30 am & 6 pm – 10 pm
Dress Code
Smart casual
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