Mesa by José Avillez– Portuguese Restaurant Macau, THE KARL LAGERFELD
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
We relive last year’s incredible gourmet travel through Portugal at Grand Lisboa Resort Macau’s Mesa by José Avillez, a restaurant curated by the Portuguese chef of the same name with several Michelin stars under his belt. We’re excited to find Avillez’s contemporary take on his national cuisine only four hours from Kuala Lumpur (as opposed to 24 hours to get ourselves back to Lisbon). Mesa’s menu features Avillez’s signature flair and specialties, highlighting Macau’s local ingredients.
Mesa by José Avillez – Portuguese Restaurant Macau
Located in THE KARL LAGERFELD in the integrated Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, the iconic designer’s artistic vision shines through in the interior design of Mesa by José Avillez, where modern Portuguese aesthetics meet oriental influences. The restaurant’s decor, characterised by a striking black, white, and gold palette, exudes a sense of luxurious sophistication that resonates throughout the space. The cosmopolitan cocktail bar area, where Lagerfeld’s signature style meets Chinese iconography, sets the tone for a dining experience that seamlessly blends traditional Asian elements with contemporary furnishings, resulting in a visually stunning dining space.
José Avillez is widely recognised as one of Portugal’s most accomplished culinary talents. After earning his first Michelin star in 2009, he has since opened several acclaimed restaurants in Lisbon, Porto, Cascais, Dubai, and this latest partnership in Macau. Avillez is perhaps best known for his two Michelin-starred Belcanto in Lisbon, also ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Chef Herlander Fernandes from Cantanhede, Coimbra, heads Mesa by José Avillez. He’s proud to share this contemporary menu of Portuguese cuisine in such an exquisite setting, uniting European and local history into the menu. Fernandes’ joy in bringing his homeland’s recipes to the table is obvious in our evening with him. He’s a gracious ear, too, reliving our appreciation for the authenticity of Portuguese dining, where terroir matters and slow living is valued.
Cocktail Menu & Prices
A quintessential fine dining experience begins with an expertly crafted cocktail. At the heart of Mesa by José Avillez, the bar area takes centre stage, its golden glow radiating through the arched ceiling and hanging lamps. We take a seat and watch as the bartender skillfully shakes, pours, and stirs the restaurant’s signature cocktail creations.
Casa de Abelha (MOP 148) is an impressive start with a rocks glass on what resembles an impossible Jenga tower. Chamomile-infused ecoSPIRITS Widges gin is combined with white Port, Portuguese honey, lavender and lemon. Fresh honeycomb and a yellow chrysanthemum garnish the top. It feels like something grandma would give you if had a cold. It carries with it a warm sense of nostalgia.
Another handsomely presented cocktail is the Amor de Lisboa (MOP 148). There’s a pale yellow liquid in a wine glass covered with a flamboyant chocolate bowl top. We use the little metal hammer to smash the choc top, causing an exciting colour change as its ingredients spill into the base and a ruby red finish. Rebel Bourbon, cherry wine and ginjinha (a sour cherry liqueur) are excellent mates to the dark chocolate top. We nibble, sip, nibble and sip. This could easily replace dessert.
Last Back Garden (MOP 158) is not to be outdone in terms of showiness either. The bird-shaped glass holds a flurry of mint leaves as a tail with a vibrant red feather accent. The contents of the glass glimmer, thanks to the jasmine-infused ecoSPIRITS gin, swallow’s nest, and wolfberry rock sugar syrup that comprise the cocktail. We think of a lush, exotic garden oasis.
The All In (MOP 158) is bold and intriguing. The base is a winter mushroom-infused bourbon, which lends an earthy, umami depth. Chinese wine vinegar adds a subtle tartness, while paprika and brown sugar balance with warmth and sweetness. The drink is garnished with a diamond-shaped ice jewel, catching the light of the glimmering bar.
A proper beginning is complete, and we move to the dining area.
Mesa by José Avillez Menu & Prices
Bread
An enticing bread basket of sourdough, cornbread, olive oil bread and brioche is on our table with … wait for it … bacon onion butter! That gets slathered on all too quickly by Jun (reelographer) and Caning (hubby), with the cornbread and sourdough disappearing before Han Sen (photographer) and I have even finished snapping photos. But don’t worry, we don’t miss out. Another basket (and butter) is soon on its way.
Petiscos (Snacks)
To start, Cone de Tempura Com Tartaro de Atum & Soja Picante (MOP 148) is a wonderful contrast of textures with a crunchy seaweed tempura cone filled with sake-marinated tuna tartare and kimchi mayonnaise. On top, there’s avocado cream, pickled red onion and shredded seaweed. Yum.
Bolinhos Crocantes de Bacalhau (MOP 128) are crispy codfish balls with a fine tempura crust holding a creamy, shredded fish filling. There’s a light topping of garlic mayonnaise and salmon roe. They’re another tasty snack.
Mesa by José Avillez Wine List
Before we go any further, I can’t wait to tell you about Mesa by José Avillez’s impressive wine list. Winning numerous recognitions from China’s Wine List of the Year Awards, the Star Wine List and Wine Spectator, the compendium of labels is diverse and well-chosen. Mother company, SJM, has one of the biggest wine cellars in the world, and with a philosophy of not marking up prices ridiculously, and no tax, the wine menu is incredibly affordable.
Mesa’s sommelier, Fiona Fu, spoils us with Portuguese choices, lining up several of her top picks for us to consider. A white from Alentejo catches my eye as this region of Portugal produces some premium wines for extraordinarily good prices. The 2021 Cartuxa Pêra-Manca Branco, Alentejo, Portugal (MOP 185) from Fundação Eugénio de Almeida is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Antão Vaz and Arinto. It’s so good it could be appreciated on its own, but it particularly shines alongside our seafood. The nose of white blooms, stone fruit and herbs is followed by a delicious palate of more fruit, creaminess, a full body and a long, luscious finish. Gosh, this is a beauty.
Later, we move to another label from Alentejo that tastes above its pay grade, the Dona Maria 2017 Reserva Tinto 2015 (MOP 145). The 50% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Syrah, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Touriga Nacional blend was crushed by foot, old-school, in large stone vats. Aged in new French oak barrels, there’s spice woven into the dark fruit and mint nose. The bouquet is mirrored in the palate with well-integrated tannins and a considerable conclusion. We like the fruit in this drop with our piri piri chicken and suckling pig mains.
Pratos de Peixe e Marisco (Seafood & Fish)
For lovers of fresh seafood, the Caldeireta de Carabineiro, Lavagante E Gamba Arroz (MOP 1168) is a must-order. It features the highly-prized Carabineiros, scarlet prawns, so named because of their striking red colour resembling Spanish guard uniforms. They’re valued for their delicate taste and texture. These have been grilled with Boston lobster, which you can taste evenly throughout the rice stew. Lovely long grains of Agulha rice, seasoned with seafood stock, olive oil, ginger and garlic come together to create a taste of the sun-kissed shores of Portugal.
Pratos de Carne (Meat)
We’re grateful we’ve had some assistance in choosing the menu. As it all looks so good, we find it hard to narrow our selection. However, both the chicken and the pork are highly recommended, and after trying them both, we’re glad we listened to the chef’s suggestions.
Frango Piri Piri, Batata, Abacate (MOP 358) sees piri-piri chicken with potato and avocado sauce served in a wooden treasure box. In the bottom of the box, there’s smoked rosemary and thyme tickling our noses with the aroma. The chicken absorbs the smokey flavour of the herbs, and the meat has nicely crisped skin. We use a brush of fresh thyme and rosemary to coat the triple-cooked potato rings on the side with the chicken jus it comes with. Don’t miss the avocado with lemon juice, cumin, pepper, and piri piri sauces – they’re fantastic with both the chicken and the potato rings.
Chef Herlander Fernandes hales from a region in Portugal famous for its suckling pig. While the “Sandwich” de Leitao, Batata e Salada de Laranja (MOP 358), suckling pig “sandwich” is not a replica of his hometown recipe, the flavours are very familiar. This “sandwich” is caused by the crispy skin holding the tender, tasty pig like a lunch box staple, and the secret to the flavour is in the Bairrada (Portugal’s suckling pig region) sauce. It’s essentially the jus of the pork with black pepper, garlic, parsley and bay leaf, which also does well with the potato mille fuile. An orange salad dressed with orange vinaigrette in a cute little piggy bank-resembling container slices through the fattiness of the meat, balancing each forkful.
Portuguese Cheese Platter
We might have been ready to dive right into dessert had we not seen the Selecao de Queijos Portugueses (MOP 168), a Portuguese cheese platter. Gosh, it’s rare to see such beauties in Kuala Lumpur, so we couldn’t resist squeezing in one more plate. The platter comes with grapes, quince jelly, fruit and nut bread slices, and a trio of cheeses: St Jorge, Serra da Estrela, and Serpa cheese. Hailing from the famous cow-grazing island of Azores, St Jorge Cheese is a hard variety with a bold flavour. The second, a sheep’s milk cheese with a rich and creamy taste, is made in the mountainous Serra da Estrela region. Lastly, the semi-soft raw sheep’s milk cheese, Serpa, is curdled with thistle extract rather than the usual animal rennet, and traditional production involves a ritual of folding a muslin cloth precisely 40 times for filtering. They’re fantastic. Cheese lovers have to try this plate – such a rare find in Southeast Asia.
Sobremesas (Desserts)
Each of our desserts at Mesa by José Avillez is a refreshing surprise on tradition. The first, “Kumquat” (MOP 108), is beautiful, shaped like the fruit namesake, with a leaf garnishing the sphere and a tart sorbet and biscuit crumble siding it. The texture, the acidity, the creaminess – it’s both refreshing and sweet. It brings Han Sen and Jun feelings of nostalgia for the Chinese New Year.
Caramelo Salgado (MOP 108) has everyone oohing and aahing with feelings of comfort and memories of curling up on rainy days watching movies, eating popcorn and drinking hot chocolate. The big mug of brandy caramel cream with a sprinkle of sea salt, pieces of brownies and caramelised popcorn is sweet, creamy and aerated. We scoop all the way to the bottom to get all the layers in one spoonful.
Lastly, Mil Folhas de Pastel de Nata (MOP 108) is an innovative twist on a Portuguese egg tart made as millefeuille. Orange custard fills the layers, and the coffee ice cream on the side mirrors the habit of enjoying a good brew with an egg tart.
And, a final drop, to truly celebrate the magnificent wine list, a 20-year-old Tawny Port from Quinta do Noval. With a nose of dried fruit and almonds and a voluptuous character, its elegant smoothness and high concentration lead to a mouthwatering, long finish. It could be dessert all on its own.
Reasons to visit Mesa by José Avillez, Macau: a beautiful setting; start with a cocktail at the attractive bar area; exceptional and value-for-money wine list; must order some phenomenal Portuguese wine; delicious menu of contemporary Portuguese cuisine; excellent service.
Mesa by José Avillez Macau– Contemporary Portuguese Restaurant in Macau
Level 3, THE KARL LAGERFELD Macau (Hotel Entrance)
Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau
R. do Tiro, Macao
+853 8881 000
Link to The Karl Lagerfeld on Google Maps
www.grandlisboapalace.com/en/restaurants-n-bars/mesa
Mesa by José Avillez Macau Opening Hours
Monday:
Breakfast: 7:00 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.
Dinner: 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Bar: 5:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Wednesday to Friday:
Dinner: 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Bar: 5:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Saturday and Sunday:
Breakfast: 7:00 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.
Lunch: 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Sunday Lunch: 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Dinner: 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Bar: 5:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.
(Closed on Tuesdays)
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