IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Wine Dinner -The Yeatman, Portugal
Monica Tindall
Weekly wine dinners with Portugal’s premium producers are nothing short of what you’d expect from a hotel with the acclaim of “Best Hotel Wine List in the World!” The Yeatman in Porto has over 30 000 labels in its cellar, which are rotated three times a year, meaning the movement of over 90 thousand bottles!
The hotel is also known for its fabulous Sunset Parties, where guests can try over 200 wines with the best views of Porto at sundown. They’re the proud owners of several well-recognised Port labels, run WOW (World of Wine): The Cultural District, and collaborate with over 100 Portuguese wine producers. Each winery is given a room in their luxury hotel to add a splash of décor of their own, be included on their impressive wine list, and given a chance to participate in weekly wine dinners such as the one we attend tonight featuring the spoils of IN.FI.NI.TU.DE from the Lisbon wine region.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Wine Dinner – The Yeatman
Executive Chef Ricardo Costa of The Yeatman has led the fine dining restaurant in the hotel to earn two MICHELIN Stars. He is responsible for all meals in the hotel and designs the menu for the weekly wine dinners curating recipes to match the featured labels.
Tonight, we dine with IN.FI.NI.TU.DE’s owner Rodrigo Jardim, winemaker Francisco Figueiredo, marketing manager Luis Mota Veiga, and The Yeatman’s wine director Elisabete Fernandes. The fabulous General Manager of the hotel, Monica Gonçalves, joins us for a sunset aperitif on the incredible-view deck and then heads off to check on various happenings at this vibrant hotel. We’re self-confessed wine nerds and delight in hearing the stories of the wines and the people behind them.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Winery, Lisbon Wine Region
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE wines began in 2000 when the current owner, Rodrigo Jardim’s father, began growing wine for parties. With his mother from Porto and father from Madeira, the family comes from a long history of wine production. The inside joke is that Mum’s Port is so good it could almost match Dad’s Madeira, and vice versa. Until 2015 wine was only made for family and friends (and some unforgettable parties we hear). In 2016 Rodrigo, a lawyer with five children who clearly doesn’t need any sleep, took on the project, releasing the first commercial label.
Sintra is a UNESCO world heritage site in the Lisbon wine region of Portugal. IN.FI.NI.TU.DE’s production is a small 15 thousand bottles annually, so it’s a rare and precious find if you can access it outside the country. Located between the mountains and the sea, the microclimate is harsh, but as Rodrigo says, “the Portuguese must have their wines so the vines will find a way.” The area is famous for old vines using original European rootstock. The system of digging aside metres of sand to plant long stems in clay and then covering those stems with the same sand protects the roots from phylloxera, which nearly wiped out vineyards worldwide in the 19th century. As IN.FI.NI.TU.DE is a passion project, they have the luxury of time. They’re in no hurry to turn a Euro so they can focus on making exceptional wine, and we’re grateful to try some of the fruits of their labour this evening.
The Yeatman Menu
Special Caviar
The menu unfolds with Special Caviar presented within a petite tin. An array of finely cubed fish bathed in velvety sour cream forms the base, with a top layer of luxuriant dark caviar. A delicate arrangement of ginger and celery gels, a tangy horseradish purée, and fresh microgreens create an artistic tableau. A solitary churro accompanies the dish, offering a tasty scoop for the creamy indulgence, while a fork and spoon ensure no drop is missed.
Oyster
Part two presents Oyster, a dish that unites the flavours of the sea and land. The star of the plate luxuriates in a sumptuous jalapeño espuma. This delicate foam, similar to a weightless mousse, offers a creamy and addictive counterpart to the oceanic brine of the oyster. Finely sliced green apple and gel introduce a crisp, refreshing element. An innovative touch of foie gras nitrogen crumb lends a unique texture that melts instantly on the tongue.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Indigena Riesling 2022
The starters find a fine match in the IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Indigena Riesling 2022. With only 1200 bottles produced annually, we appreciate every drop of this exclusive wine. True to its ‘Indigena’ label, which changes with each vintage, it’s a wild one, naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts. The grapes are slower to ripen in the harsh climate, resulting in a rich, unctuous texture accompanied by subtle waxy notes. Hints of citrus, stone fruits and herbal notes create a refreshingly unique taste profile.
Black Cod
The fish course sees Black Cod covered with scalloped golden potatoes and sided with potato puree. Caramelised black pork pieces furnish a light chew and a great crunch. Tiny clams emphasise the flavours of the sea, and a whirl of green sauce brightens the plate.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Malvasia de Colares 2020
The IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Malvasia de Colares 2020 wine pairing is a rare gem from Portugal’s second-smallest DOC region. Its unique planting method in clay with sand-covered stems and low, horizontal vines braving the Atlantic wind and salt conditions produces only 600 bottles annually. With an iodine nose and notes of green apple, citrus, jasmine, and honeysuckle, it offers a dry, fresh, and balanced taste. The well-integrated acidity and lingering finish further enhance its allure, making it an excellent complement to the cod.
Bread
My table mates have been here before and eagerly anticipate the bread course. We hear that there’s a different bread with each wine dinner. Tonight the house-made puffy round is croissant-like in texture. It’s served with butter made from a trio of creams – goat, sheep and cow, alongside local virgin olive oil. We understand the excitement.
‘Tropical’ Pigeon
The main course, ‘Tropical’ Pigeon, is covered in a thin blanket of spices reminiscent of an Indian curry mix. The spice gives a light heat to the tongue but not enough to reach the back of the throat. Cubes of mango and drops of coconut and mango gels temper the mild heat. The meat is incredibly tender and pink in the middle.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Pinot Noir 2018
The pigeon is matched with IN.FI.NI.TU.DE Pinot Noir 2018. This winery was the first to plant Pinot Noir in the region. Its cherry and fruit nose complements the light, vibrant, mineral-rich red. Dry, medium-bodied, and well-balanced, it boasts soft, integrated tannins and a lingering finish.
Dessert
The dessert, Cherries, Almonds & Pink Mallow Sticks, features cherries in various textures – sorbet, gel, marinated and mousse. Smooth almond cream introduces a gentle marzipan essence, and the grand finale comes as a deep cherry dark sauce cascade over the dish upon delivery.
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE’s Rosado Merlot 2021
The final wine pairing is IN.FI.NI.TU.DE’s Rosado Merlot 2021, crafted from the first press of Merlot grapes. It’s dry and deep, offering both acidity and salinity. It ends fresh, full and complex. Like many Portuguese rosé wines, it has flecks of orange in colour. We like it a lot.
Mignardises
To conclude, guests are offered chef’s tea infusion or coffee with mignardises. The handcrafted chocolates are white, milk and dark with various fillings. Among them, the passionfruit filling stands out as a clear favourite. This culmination gives the meal a dash of luxury and sweetness, guaranteeing a gratifying end to the gastronomic excursion.
Reasons to join a wine dinner at The Yeatman: dinner prepared by a chef responsible for two Michelin Stars paired with premium Portuguese wines; an opportunity to meet the winemaker and connect with fellow oenophiles; apertives on a patio with the most incredible views of Porto.
The Yeatman
Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
+351 22 013 3100
www.the-yeatman-hotel.com/pt/
IN.FI.NI.TU.DE WINE
Rua Quinta do Cosme, 24 Quinta da Azenha
2710-237, Sintra, Lisbon Wine Region, Portugal
+351 938 898 885
www.infinitudevinhos.pt
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Lovely shot of the vineyard.