Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur’s New Executive Chef, Darrell J. O’Neill

Greeted by cool evening breezes, shimmering waters and a handsomely dressed table under tropical trees, our initial meeting with the new executive chef of Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur, Darrell J. O’Neill was a sensory fulfilling one. The fifth floor of the hotel is filled with lush gardens, a lagoon-shaped pool, bar and a covered function area. It is here that we sampled a taste of what is to come with the introduction of the new executive chef in an Evening Under the Stars.

Chef Darrell discovered his love of cooking as a child. He fondly remembers helping his mum bake and prepare the daily meals as a youngster. His passion for food developed into a culinary career that has taken him around the globe in many prestigious positions. Overseeing four (!) Michelin starred
restaurants in Atlantis and also leading the team at the famous seven-star Burj Al Arab in Dubai are just two of the highlights. Years later, with a worldwide resume behind him and formal training in French cookery, he says that he doesn’t like to be defined by one particular cuisine. His inspiration comes from fresh high-quality ingredients prepared to optimize their natural tastes and textures. With that said though, he does admit to being influenced by the simplicity of Japanese food and you’ll see a hint or more from this region in his dishes.  While taste is obviously important, he finds presentation equally fundamental. He says that most people first ‘taste with their eyes’ building up an expectation before the first bite. Expect to see this chef in the dining room too. Interacting with guests, educating them, finding their likes and dislikes and enjoying a connection over good food – he sees these as vital to his role.In this Evening Under the Stars, we were able to witness all of these things – pure joy as he chatted with guests, beautifully presented plates and of course, exceptional food.

Quality ingredients with a Japanese influence were a common thread to the evening’s lineup. One of six signature sake cocktails available at their Japanese restaurant, Tatsu, the Tropical Masumi, was our liquid libation.  Made with Masumi Sake, pineapple juice, lime, sugar syrup and sour plum, this sweet and sour concoction was a perfect poolside recharger.

Edamame and Mint Gazpacho with Hand Dived Scallops was the first canapé tabled. Roughly blended greens provided a textured base for the firm sea creatures. This shooter size creation reminded me of an Eastern version of pea and ham soup. Edamame replaced the peas, scallops the ham and it was served cold rather than hot. Asian Angus Beef Tartar Crostini continued the path. Minced herbed beef topped a crunchy bread base forming a contrast of textures and another resemblance to a western cousin.  The Cauliflower Espuma with Citrus Lobster and Caviar was my favourite and hubby woofed down the bite-size burgers of Chicken Satay Sliders with Mango and Coriander Chutney.

The first plate, Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with Shimeiji Mushrooms, Micro Greens and Citrus Dressing, saw a thin round of Australian wagyu beef from Queensland moated by edamame beans, tiny leaves and sprinkled with sesame seeds and salt. Black Cod aside Sweet Potato and Ginger Mousseline, Baby Beets, Broccolini and Bonito Foam made a stunning main with the flaky but firm, flawlessly baked fish contrasting in texture and flavour with the smooth mash and crisp vegetables.

Dessert was just as pertinent as the preceding courses. The grand finale, Modern Coconut Tartufo with Kahlua, was a dessert and cocktail in one.  This versatile number could just as easily be savoured at the bar or at the dining table. Diced mango is topped with homemade coconut ice cream, a Malibu Sabayon, a chocolate sheet and then drizzled with a Kahlua, rum and espresso sauce generating nirvana in a martini glass.

Chef Darrell is passionate about food and people. His modern innovative ideas are sure to take the kitchens of Intercontinental Kuala Lumpur to a new level of quality and presentation.

8 Comments

  1. its was a beautiful evening filled with loads of gorgeous food from Chef Darrell…. my favorite is the Black Cod! =)

  2. Interesting creations… Welcome to Malaysia,Darrell.

  3. Fabulously written 🙂 A lovely account of a wonderful evening. And those mooncakes were delicious! Ahh I love all the Malaysian festivals and their foods..

  4. i think I will think twice before eating the "raw" beef, it is just too raw for my liking >.<

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