Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao – Contemporary Basque

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao – Contemporary Basque Cuisine

Monica Tindall

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao, a fine-dining restaurant in the iconic Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao, offers a unique gastronomic experience that celebrates the bounty of the Basque Country. Chef Josean Alija and his team take inspiration from the local terroir to create seasonal dishes that are both delicious and visually stunning. Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao proudly holds One MICHELIN Star and Three Repsol Suns. It also secured the prestigious No.32 spot in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants of 2019.

Nerua’s culinary philosophy is “muina,” a Basque word meaning “soul.” Chef Alija channels his soul into his cooking, drawing inspiration from his training under contemporary culinary masters. He creates dishes that are beautifully presented and bursting with flavour. Nerua’s menu changes three times a year to reflect the availability of fresh, local ingredients. 

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao

We dined following an inspiring visit to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The museum closes at 8 pm, and the restaurant opens at 8:30 pm. It was just enough time to refresh and walk along the river, admiring the building from outside at sunset and taking a few pics. The entrance is between the bridge and the enormous spider sculpture Maman – easy to find.

Walking up one flight of stairs, we were first greeted by an open kitchen and a chorus of “Eguerdi ON!” which in Basque means “¡Buen mediodía!” Once inside, the minimalist dining room was awash in a palette of neutral colours. The ceiling, covered with mesh-like cloth, referenced the waves of the river, the restaurant’s namesake. Tables were all turned to face the view of the Guggenheim Museum through a single large curved window. The design all worked towards a sense of calm, and the capable, multilingual staff, created a warm, inviting atmosphere. Of special mention were our kind servers, Jennifer, Ander, and Lingfeng, who went above and beyond by answering detailed questions and explaining the ideas behind each dish.

The Menu

Guests can choose a la carte or a tasting menu – ‘Muina’. As you know, I’m all for letting the chef choose, so Muina, “the soul of the kitchen”, with wine pairing, of course, is on the bill. The Muina Tasting Menu is priced at EUR 85 per person, and guests can add a wine pairing for EUR 38 or a non-alcoholic pairing for EUR 25.

Champagne

A glass of bubbly, Vve Fourny Champagne à Vertus Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru La Puretè Extra Brut, sets us on the right path with a fine mousse, creamy middle and savoury finish.

Aperitives

We started with a variety of aperitives, small intriguing bites warming up our minds and tastebuds for the rest of the menu. The squid pelayo bread was a light bun made with squid, red onion, and green pepper, that vanished on the palate within seconds of contact. The legumes and basil gazpacho, a crisp and vibrant soup, was crafted from the essence of legumes, and complemented by the freshness of green onions, garlic, and the aromatic touch of basil. The Fried Egg, a playful rendition of the classic pintxos from Bilbao, featured a halved quail egg crowned with a delicate foam – a nod to tradition with a contemporary twist. Lastly, the Cricket showcased a medley of potato, lettuce, and onion seasoned with olive oil and salt. Bound together on a toothpick, each bite delivered a satisfying crunch reminiscent of a cricket’s legs rubbing together, playfully earning its name.

Tomatoes Aromatic Herbs & Caper Juice

The first course, Tomatoes Aromatic Herbs & Caper Juice, was a playful and interactive dish. Five tomatoes were infused with different herbs, and diners were invited to guess the contents of each one. The “Joko” or “game”, presented as an instructional card beside the dish, encouraged light-hearted play. It is a fun and creative introduction to the flavours of the Basque region. Still, the game ended with the starter, making it an elegant icebreaker without becoming a gimmick in later courses.

Eggplant 

The next course, Eggplant, was roasted with ‘makil goxo’ and sided with olive oil yoghurt. Makil Goxo is a local liquorice candy that imparted sweet anis flavours into the soft mound of vegetables. It’s recommended to first eat each component separately and then together. While the eggplant possessed a modest taste, the creamy yoghurt emerged as the hero, bridging the flavours and elevating the dish.

Cava Mestres Coquet Brut Nature

Our palates were once again refreshed with a glass of bubbly, this time Cava Mestres Coquet Brut Nature from Catalunya, a classic blend of Xarel-lo, Macabeu and Parellada grapes. Hand-picked from 40-year-old bush vines, the wine is aged 42 months, and there’s such care in its production that it’s even disgorged manually. The result is an elegant, well-textured sparkling wine that is dry with good depth.

Antxovy

Deconstructed Gilda, a famous Basque pintxo made with anchovies, olives, and piparra peppers, followed. This version features a single anchovy fillet, a piparra sphere, and an olive oil sauce. The piparra sphere is made by pickling a piparra pepper in olive oil until it becomes soft and translucent. When we bit into it, the pepper burst in our mouths, releasing its herbal, green capsicum flavours. The olive oil sauce added a touch of acidity and helped to bind all of the flavours together. The cava smoothed and complemented the tang in the profile, and the remaining corner of bread came in handy for ensuring that not a drop of that delicious olive oil sauce was wasted.

Txakolina, Itsas Mendi 7

Turning our attention to local wine, we got an education in Chacolin or Txakolina with a glass of Itsas Mendi 7. This name, meaning “made in house,” harks back to the age-old tradition of crafting wines in the comfort of home. Txakolina is traditionally made from two local grapes, Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia, but the Itsas Mendi 7 wine also includes Riesling to temper the acidity of the local grapes. This wine has more body and structure than some other Txakolinas and can last several years in the bottle. The acidity in the wine balances its ripeness. It begins powerful and bold, but with time in the bottle, it develops complexity and elegance.

Oyster

Pil pil, a distinctive local sauce and onomatopoeia, given its name thanks to the sound of the garlic frying in hot oil, accompanied the next course, Oyster. The French Gillardeau oyster is known for its plumpness and sweetness. A slight char from the grill imparted a touch of smokiness, and the anchovy pil pil was rich and mouthfilling, with a slight acid kick from the fish. The combination of the briny oyster, rich pil pil, and salty pops of caviar paired well with the wine, which further brought out its minerality.

Bonito Tuna 

Our subsequent plate, Bonito Tuna, was both familiar and intriguing. The tuna was in prime season and simply cooked with roasted tomato juice and pickled shallots. The pickles added a touch of tang and heat, while the nasturtium leaf contributed freshness and a slightly peppery flavour. The chilli recoto, a Peruvian chilli, gave the dish a unique edge that was both familiar and exotic. 

El Pacto del Alto Najerilla, Rioja, 2021, Blanco

The makers of our wine partner, El Pacto del Alto Najerilla, Rioja, 2021, Blanco, have a singular focus on preserving old vines, the very few untouched by industrialised farming. The average age of vines that produced grapes going into this bottle is 60 years old, with some first planted as early as 1915. Malvasia, White Grenache and Jaina are the principal selection gifting aromas of citrus, straw and whispers from a pastry kitchen. The wine’s good acidity makes it exceptional with food, yet it is also balanced with a full-cream mouthfeel thanks to the gentle ageing in oak.

Grilled Squids

More treasures of the sea are found in the Grilled Squids. The pinkish-white flesh stood out in the bowl of green bean juice they sat in. While bean juice might not sound enticing on paper, it smelt wonderful. It was a flawless textural contrast to the caramelised edges of the soft squid.

Cantabrian Sea Bass 

Cantabrian Sea Bass plated with swirls of rhubarb and spinach sauces looked like it was auditioning for a wall in the Guggenheim Museum next door. The fish has been cooked in a small amount of salt, then steamed, and served with vibrant mauve and green sauces. The fish is smooth but fleshy, and the merger of the sea and earth in the condiments is a successful partnership.

Duck Foie Gras

I don’t usually consume foie gras as force-feeding animals so we can benefit from their unhealthy fatty livers just doesn’t seem ethical. However, I didn’t catch it before dining, and there it sat on my plate. Not wanting the bird to have suffered in vain, I dug into the duck liver accompanied by carrots and makil goxo (remember the liquorice candy from earlier on). The charred edges gave way to a soft, silky middle. It was so rich I couldn’t make it past a forkful. Hubby, on the other hand, managed to polish off both our plates.  

Angelita del Challao, 2020, Rioja Alavesa

The white wines had been an eye-opening selection, and now we were excited to see what the local reds offered. The Angelita del Challao Rioja DOCa was a medium to full-bodied red wine with a complex profile. It opened with notes of cherries, chocolate, and flowers. The wine exhibited a medium body. The fruit displayed ripeness without excessive intensity, while the acidity offered a refreshing quality. The tannins made their presence known yet remained pleasantly moderate, contributing to the wine’s overall structure. It’s noteworthy that Robert Parker has awarded this wine an impressive score of 93 points!

Iberian Pork Belly

The Iberian pork belly with pickled vegetables wafted amazing aromas, sporting a fantastic smokiness. It felt warm and comforting, like cuddling a chubby belly. The pickled vegetables added a nice acidity and crunch, and the sherry reduction tied everything together with its rich sweetness.

Lemon Tart

The lemon tart with almond, honey, and rosemary meringue smelt incredible, vibrant with citrus and resembled a delicate piece of art. Our waiter confirmed and advised, “It’s beautiful, but we recommend you destroy it.” The tart case was a paper-thin layer of caramelised sugar. The meringue was herbal, not overly sweet. The citrus sphere hidden inside burst, spilling liquid as our spoons hit it. Hubby prefers a sweeter dessert, but this was just right for me.

Gorka Izagirre Arima Vendimia Tardia 2020

We concluded with Gorka Izagirre Arima Vendimia Tardia 2020, a local Basque white wine crafted from Hondarrabi Zerratia grapes (we tasted these in the Itsas Mendi 7 earlier in the evening). It balanced sweetness and freshness, weaving ripe fruit and caramelised spice through notable acidity. This late-harvest iteration, reserved for remarkable years, exuded an elegant brightness. It was perfect for sipping on its own or pairing with desserts, fruits, or cheeses.

Butter Bun with Ice Cream

Petit fours at Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao are no ordinary offering. Instead of the traditional bite-sized pastries, they came in the form of a butter bun with ice cream. The buttery brioche was the envelope for the house-made ice cream sandwich, meant to be eaten with your hands. The experience took us from the beginning, starting with our hands, and brought us full circle, concluding with our hands once more.

Reasons to visit Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao: exceptional service – this is how you get a star or a sun; creative menu that is fun but not gimmicky; contemporary interpretations of Basque cuisine; combine the culinary arts with the visual arts following a visit to the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao Museum
Av. Abandoibarra, 2. 48001 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain.
(+34) 944 000 430 [email protected]
www.neruaguggenheimbilbao.com
*Next to the sculpture “Mama” (Spider) by Louise Bourgeois

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao Opening Hours
Monday to Sunday: 1:00 p.m.-3:00 p.m. & 8:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m.

The Muina Tasting Menu: EUR 85)
Wine Pairing: (EUR 38)
Non-alcoholic pairing: (EUR 25)

*The menu is served to a full table
*10% VAT included
*Allergies can be accounted for with advance notice.

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