Continental by Yayo Daporta – Cambados

Continental by Yayo Daporta – Cambados

Monica Tindall

Cambados, a small coastal town in Rías Baixas, is known for its historical monuments, seafood, and the famous white wine, Albariño. Dating back to the Roman period, it was once a centre for the production of salt and an important port for trade with the Americas. Its well-preserved historic centre is a reflection of its rich cultural heritage. We’re only here for one night, so do our best to enjoy the region’s culinary treasures with a visit to Continental by Yayo Daporta, chef of the one MICHELIN Star restaurant of the same name.

Continental by Yayo Daporta is set in a historical building on a stone-pathed street just minutes from the beach. The downstairs terrace and restaurant serve a tapas menu with a strong focus on seafood and over ten wines by the glass. Upstairs is a finer arrangement with set menus and a slightly more formal setting. Either way, it’s the same chef designing the recipes, so rest assured, you’ll be in good hands no matter your mood. And, just as equally important, the shared wine list is distinctly local.

Continental by Yayo Daporta Wine List

Esther, the sommelier and sister of the chef, says the wine list represents Galicia with some international labels for balance. Both reds and whites get equal attention and are generally characterised by freshness and acidity thanks to local growing conditions. Cambados lies in the legendary Rias Baixes region, renowned for superb Albariño wine, so this crisp white is an obvious choice. Torre Pazo Penelas’ Pazo das Bruzas, Albariño, 2020, is the perfect mate for our seafood meal. In the glass, it’s a shiny straw hue with fragrant citrus and floral notes on the nose. Its elegant structure, fullness and liveliness on the palate, and lovely crisp lingering conclusion make it versatile, easily enjoyed as an aperitif, and a fine match for seafood.

Food Menu

Continental by Yayo Daporta’s menu is Galician in nature and especially representative of the coast on which it lies. As we contemplate the offerings, our helpful server Noah places a small plate of chorizo, bread sticks and olives marinated in garlic and oil on our table. The taste of Spain is obvious.

Pâté de Mariscos Y Algas Yayo Daporta (EUR 10) is introduced as “the speciality of the house with the taste of the sea”. This green jarred pâté is one of a kind! Made from molluscs, fish, crustaceans, algae, egg and extra virgin olive oil, it’s the only green algae, fish-based pâté’ we’ve come across. With over 5000 restaurants under my pen, that’s saying something. It’s an excellent lighter, brighter alternative to traditional pate. Toasted bread in several shapes – flat, chunks and long cylinders – contrast the smooth paste with crunch.

Pretty little fan shells line our next plate, in the dish Volandeiras Gratinadas (EUR 14). These shellfish have baked in the oven with onion, red pepper and bread crumbs. The flavours are significantly more intense than the previous dish. Yet, the wine continues to stay strong, its acidity slicing through the butteriness of the breadcrumb and powerful seafood flavour.

We enjoyed the first two plates, but it was not until the Los Boquerones Asadas con Espagueti Marino (EUR 12) that we have insight into the chef’s talent. He takes Galician anchovies and blends European and Asian styles in a unique way that is absolutely delicious. The fish are lightly grilled and served with seafood “fettuccine” made from algae macerated in soy sauce. The dish is garnished with crunchy bits of deep-fried flour and tiny pieces of green algae. The algae are distinct to Galicia, found in the ría, an inlet between the river and the sea.

Our final seafood dish is a dedication to Esther and Yayo’s father, Evaristo, and his cherished Xoubas (sardines) recipe. “Xoubas” Guisadas al Estilo de Evaristo (EUR 15) features sardines stewed with caramelised onions and red pepper strips, accompanied by hearty potato cubes, making it truly satisfying. We request another basket of crusty bread, allowing us to savour the remaining oil and exquisite seasoning. We’re reminded of Father’s fishing roots as we dip the bread alternately into the sardine sauce and the organic olive oil from Portugal’s Quinta de Ceis. The wine evolves beautifully with each dish, revealing heightened salinity and a full and bold character yet remaining elegant and perfectly balanced. We’re hooked!

Dessert

I’m not a big dessert eater, but hubby has no problem polishing off both the apple tart and cream-filled cannoli. The Empanada de Manzana (EUR 6) has just the right ratio of pastry to apple and the Las Canitas Frits (EUR 6) ooze with soft cream with every decadent crunch.

Reasons to visit Continental by Yayo Daporta: a distinctly Galician experience with the freshest seafood and excellent local wine; eat downstairs for a more casual setting and upstairs for a more refined experience with set menus.

Continental by Yayo Daporta
Rúa Hospital, 7, 36630 Cambados, Pontevedra, Spain
+34 986 52 60 62
yayodaporta.com

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