The Riff District – Bangsar – Craft Cocktails & Culinary Delights
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Matt Wehner
A month into business, we’re at The Riff District in Bangsar, meeting owner John Lim and discovering the food and beverage menu, which improvises classic recipes with Malaysian ingredients.
Up a modest staircase off Jalan Maarof, a sleek black handrail and warm lighting lead us to The Riff District’s entrance. Once inside, the bar area exudes modern sophistication with a dramatic dark palette, illuminated shelving, and blue upholstered stools. Adjacent to this, the lounge offers a cosy retreat with tan leather couches, slatted panels with warm backlighting, and natural textures that complement the refined but welcoming ambience. It’s a balance of elegance and comfort, perfect for intimate gatherings or unwinding over drinks.
John Lim, sole owner and mixologist, traded his courtroom robe for a bartender’s apron when he left his career as a litigation lawyer to start this project last year. After delayed renovations, they opened last month and have already garnered a crowd of regulars. John quips that he “moved from raising the bar to serving it,” and after today’s tasting, we’re glad he’s channelling his talents into crafting cocktails instead of arguments.
The Riff District Menu
The Riff District’s menu is a celebration of local flavours, with an emphasis on showcasing fresh produce in both its food and drinks. John describes their approach as “a tonne of funky stuff,” pointing out his personal fondness for savoury profiles, which heavily influence the drink offerings.
As his first venture, The Riff District is a culmination of John’s long-standing passion for food and beverage, a love that dates back to before his law school days. Every cocktail here has its roots in a timeless classic, reflecting John’s philosophy: once you truly master the foundations, you’re free to innovate. The result is a menu that’s inventive yet grounded, offering bold, savoury twists on the familiar, and a dining experience that feels as thoughtful as it does adventurous.
We follow the law of good dining and wisely start with some bites to fortify ourselves before indulging further.
Starters
Handmade Pita with Laksa Butter (RM 23) is light and fluffy, the perfect vehicle for the genius that is the laksa butter. Infused with galangal and blended ikan bilis, the butter strikes a balance by reducing fattiness and adding a textured depth that’s impossible to resist.
Dubbed the “sexy salad,” Brussels Sprouts (RM 40) is inspired by the Chinese four-veg recipe but elevated with bold flavours. It features four-angled beans, zucchini, white fungus, and torch ginger. It is brought to life by a wasabi mustard garnish, fried shallots, and a tangy torch ginger dressing. The dressing is so good we’re tempted to file a petition to take some home.
The generous Croquettes (RM 50) stuffed with confit duck and potato are a masterclass in indulgence. Fried to perfection in katsu breadcrumbs, they’re accompanied by a smoked tonkatsu sauce lifted with torch ginger and cold-smoking techniques. A refreshing mizuna salad on the side balances the richness.
Broccoli & Jalapeno Ezpuma (RM 62) sits atop a delicate coconut jelly, shielding a vibrant akaebi (sweet prawn) ceviche from the acidity. Its construction resembles a cake; it’s best to dig all the way to the bottom to get a layer of everything on the spoon.
Mains
A beautifully Dry-aged Duck (RM 85), rested for 10 days, pairs perfectly with pickled and charred white fungus that tempers its gamey notes. A turmeric cauliflower purée adds smooth earthiness, while a whiskey-infused jus ties the dish together with deep, smoky richness.
The freshwater Pan-seared Siakap (RM 55) is expertly seared, accompanied by Malaysian spinach (bayam) with coconut and dried shrimp (hamai), adding a local flair. Chilli tinctures offer a subtle kick, and parsley lemon beurre blanc is poured over upon serving, completing the dish with a buttery, citrusy finish.
Wide ribbons of pasta in the Handmade Pappardelle (RM 40) are generously coated in a vibrant pomodoro sauce, paired with earthy quartered mushrooms and crispy tempura eggplants. We appreciate the balance of hearty textures and bright, tomato-forward flavours.
Lastly, our succulent Argentinian Ribeye (RM 85) is served alongside variations of kailan (Chinese broccoli) and a crispy potato rosti. The chimichurri, infused with kaffir lime slow-cooked in olive oil, steals the show, cutting through the steak’s richness with zesty, aromatic notes that elevate the experience.
I love the trend of bars providing a serious food menu, crafted just as meticulously as their cocktail collection. Honestly, if I didn’t drink, I’d still be happy coming here for the food alone. But since I do, let’s navigate the booze.
The Riffs
We ease our way into the cocktail menu with a low-ABV bevvie, the Honey Trap (RM 40), where floral osmanthus liqueur meets a touch of jalapeño, dry vermouth, honey, fresh lemon, and vodka. Freshly cut jalapeños add a bitter brightness, while saffron flowers make a delicate garnish. Served in a wooden Korean-inspired vessel reminiscent of a sweet rice wine cup, this drink brings a cosy, earthy character. Majestic clear ice cubes deepen its honeyed allure—a gentle start to the cocktail lineup.
Bold and addictive, the spirit-forward Guluyuk (RM 55) is inspired by Chinese sweet-and-sour pork. Brandy takes centre stage alongside red and yellow capsicums, homemade pineapple syrup, umeshu (plum liqueur), and lime bitters for balance. Freeze-dried capsicum garnish adds a tactile twist; nibbling on it reactivates the tangy sweetness and vibrancy in my mouth—a playful and memorable experience.
A tribute to Malaysian herbs, Nasi Kerabu (RM 48) mixes agricole rum infused with five native leaves (kaffir lime, turmeric, kaduk, lemongrass, and butterfly pea flower), aged Diplomatico rum, lime, and ginger. The herbal and zesty profile is bold and refreshing, but ikan bilis (anchovy) liqueur introduces a daring umami edge. Presented in an elegant Nick & Nora glass, this cocktail captures the essence of local ingenuity—an acquired taste for some, but undeniably innovative.
Classics Reimagined
The Riff District’s cocktail creativity goes beyond their unique concoctions—they reinvent the classics with a Malaysian twist, preserving their essence while introducing bold, local flavours.
A clever Chinese twist on the timeless Tom Collins, Lim Collins (RM 40) features Szechuan peppercorn-infused dry gin, offering a tingling warmth with a slight numbing effect. Apricot liqueur, yuzu purée, fresh lemon, and a splash of shandy—a nostalgic nod to the beer-and-lemonade combo loved by Chinese aunties during CNY—add layers of sweetness and zest. Chocolate bitters give it a complex finish, and an edible flower garnish completes this bright and lively drink, served in a highball glass.
Troubled Child (RM 50) is a bold, sour reimagining of a daiquiri channeling the vibrant tang of kedondong (ambarella), Cachaça 51, agricole rum Clément Blanc, and preserved dried plums. The result is a puckering sourness that hides an unexpected sweetness—reminiscent of the kedondong and assam boi (dry sour plums) refreshments once sold by street vendors. A tribute to John’s favorite dry daiquiri, this twist stays true to its roots while stirring up nostalgic memories of the past.
A bold yet smooth martini-style creation, the Papatini (RM 55) dazzles with its papaya-infused gin, kaffir lime-infused dry Cocchi Americano vermouth, and Aperol. The bittersweet tropical notes are balanced, and its vibrant orange hue makes it as eye-catching as it is delicious. Served in a sleek Nick and Nora glass, it’s a zesty, bright cocktail with an unforgettable finish.
Reasons to visit The Riff District: hospitality and service; Malaysian forward flavours in food and drinks; our must-orders are Handmade Pita with Laksa Butter, Brussels Sprouts, Honey Trap and Troubled Child.
The Riff District
54-1, Jalan Maarof, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to The Riff District on Google Maps
+6 012-434 5401
@theriffdistrict
The Riff District Hours
Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday to Monday: 3 pm – 12 am
Find more KL bar recommendations here, and stay up-to-date on the latest gourmet and travel happenings around Malaysia via The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.