Café-Bistrot David Menu TTDI – “Make it taste good”
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Order any dish at Café-Bistrot David, and the odds are that something will arrive at your table that’s been 30 years in the making.
And believe me, every year of experience shows.
This elegant yet understated restaurant in TTDI is the brainchild and passion project of veteran restaurateur and Chef Patron David Chin. If you haven’t heard of David, you will certainly have heard of his Michelin-starred son Darren. And after a very pleasant lunch at Café-Bistrot David, it’s easy to see where Darren got his gift.
(Oh, and you’ll find beautiful artwork by Sharon Chin, David’s daughter, adorning the walls. Talk about keeping it in the family … and a ridiculously talented one at that. And son Brian is on the team, too, ensuring marketing and public relations run smoothly.)
The mantra here is “Make it taste good.” Chef David, unmoved by convention or expectation, has curated, crafted and cooked up a menu that speaks to his far-reaching and wide-ranging experiences over the many, many years he’s been playing the culinary game. Whether that’s his own take on famous dishes or a refined version of a memorable meal with friends, if he likes it, he’ll find room for it, no matter where in the world it comes from. “Campur (mixed) international”, he laughs. For Chef David, “the main thing is taste” — which sounds completely obvious, but when you think about it, how many chefs have veered away from that fundamental philosophy in pursuit of personal glory?
Not this one, at least.
Time to put that taste to the test. The first dish to arrive is the Beef Sushi (RM20/piece) — yes, beef sushi in a French bistro. But, of course, it works. It’s almost like a tartare, but unmistakably sushi; a brisket cut of high-grade A5 wagyu beef with a hint of hon-wasabi (that’s genuine wasabi to you and me … or maybe just me) for a hot-and-spicy alternative to a classic beef-and-mustard combo. Scoop it up in one shot with chopsticks and let this stunningly smooth morsel atop creamy sushi rice just melt in your mouth, with little bursts of flavour from the wasabi and tobiko (salmon roe).
The CBD Original Burrata (RM58), a dazzling light-fresh-and-creamy combination of beef cecina, pecorino cheese, and fresh and confit tomatoes with plenty of butter, oil and seasoning, apparently won ‘best ever’ dish in a local celebrity chef TV series. I was too busy eating it to ask for its autograph, but can confirm it’s very good indeed.
The Chargrilled Honey Corn Ribs (RM35) are one of the best bar snacks I’ve had for a while, which I thoroughly recommend inhaling with a couple of Sangrias (see below). The natural sweetness is, quite literally, unbelievable — I almost raise my voice at Chef demanding to know what the sugar-coated secret is to the sweetness of this corn, but he doesn’t budge. Just fresh produce and a charcoal grill, he says. I’d try to argue, but my mouth is full.
Still, I make sure to leave plenty of room for the House-Smoked Kurau Soufflé Omelette (RM68), inspired by the famous Arnold Bennett omelette at the Savoy in London. Chef David’s version replaces the traditional haddock with kurau (Indian threadfin fish) and somehow harmonises the ‘meaty’ (omelette) with the ‘fluffy’ (soufflé) to create a beautifully balanced, incredibly complicated and absolutely delicious dish.
More magic appears at the table, this time in the form of David’s Roast Chicken with Tarragon Sauce (RM88) — ½ organic kampung chicken on a bed of roasted veg. How in the world Chef David has got kampung chicken this juicy and plump and outrageously tasty is beyond me, but I neither know nor care. I’m only focused on eating as much of this as possible before I have to reluctantly share it.
That is, until the Mix Seafood Paella (RM155) arrives at the table. This is the real deal, finished in the Mibrasa charcoal oven to achieve ‘socarrat’, the crispy, caramelised and slightly smoky layer of semi-charred rice at the bottom of the pan, a sure sign of a genuine Spanish recipe. The rest of the pan — ringed with clams and baby octopus — sure ain’t bad either. And if you prefer pasta with your seafood, the Linguine (RM88) is an excellent alternative, stuffed to bursting with silky smooth noodles, kombu butter, prawn, squid, clams and scallops.
Apparently, the NY Reuben Sandwich (RM75) is back by popular demand. I just don’t understand why it left in the first place. A generous helping of seven-day-brined, in-house-smoked Angus beef pastrami, packed into toasted rye bread with some Russian dressing, proper sauerkraut and Gruyere cheese — please, if you have inside information about its disappearance, tell me, because I would open a restaurant that sold this and only this. Next to that restaurant, I would have another one that exclusively sold the Beef Bourguignon Pie and Bone Marrow (RM88), an indulgent, addictive combination of flaky pastry and rich, tender premium beef cuts.
Carnivorous carbo-loading over, it’s time for some sweet treats. If you like your desserts sharp and tangy, try the Crêpe Suzette (RM45), which I’m calling “grown-up pancakes” because of the Cointreau in the recipe — zesty, tangy, neither too sweet nor sickly, with a generous creamy dollop of vanilla bean gelato. If you prefer something richer, I recommend the Profiteroles Au Chocolat (RM48), giant, crispy pastries stuffed with that delicious vanilla gelato and smothered in Valrhona Guanaja chocolate and creme anglaise. Très bon.
And because it’s a weekend, we’re washing down this excellent meal with some quality booze. The BSB Original Sangria (RM45/glass; RM120/carafe) is the perfect choice for a sunny Saturday afternoon, and comes in two varieties; the Red Sangria is a luscious, bold and fruity number with a strong edge thanks to the dash of brandy, and the Pink Sangria is just beautiful in this weather, sharp and sweet and citrusy.
Once we’ve scooped the booze-soaked chunks of fresh-cut fruit from the bottom of our glass and wiped up the last of the Crêpe Suzette sauce, it’s time to say adieu to Chef David – for now. Something tells us we’ve just scratched the surface of this menu …
Reasons to visit Café-Bistrot David: indulgent menu full of international influences and personal creative touches drawing on Chef David’s 30 years’ experience; comfortable, semi-casual set-up with a lively atmosphere, suitable for anything from first dates to family dinners; generous portions of high-quality fare; excellent service.
Café-Bistrot David
135-135A, Jalan Aminuddin Baki
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Café-Bistrot David on Google Maps
@cafebistrotdavid +6 018 912 0332
Café-Bistrot David Opening Hours
Wednesday to Monday (Closed Tuesday)
Lunch
Weekdays: 12:00pm to 4:00pm (last order at 3:00pm)
Weekends: 11:00am to 4:00pm (last order at 3:00pm)
Dinner
Session 1: 6:00pm to 8:00pm (with a two-hour dining limit)
Session 2: 8:00pm to 10:30pm (last order at 9:15pm)
The Grill Upstairs
Dinner only
Session 1: 6:00pm to 8:00pm (with a two-hour dining limit)
Session 2: 8:15pm to Late (last order at 9:30pm)
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