Stefania Italian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
The culinary world is witnessing a heartwarming trend: Chefs are increasingly honouring their mothers by naming their restaurants after them. This practice goes beyond simple naming; however, it forms a powerful narrative that connects diners to the chef’s personal history and the roots of their inspiration. This growing trend reflects a desire for authenticity and a return to the comforting, familial essence of food. This movement acknowledges the often-unsung heroes of the kitchen, the matriarchs whose recipes and techniques are the very bedrock of many chefs’ careers. It’s a shift towards honouring tradition and personal connection, a reminder that even in the most sophisticated dining experiences, the heart of good food often lies in the simple, heartfelt dishes passed down through generations.
This trend is exemplified here in KL by Chef Diego Reali’s “Stefania,” a Kuala Lumpur restaurant that pays homage to his mother, a respected chef in Rome, his native Italy. In a world where culinary innovation often takes centre stage, these chefs remind us that the most authentic and deeply satisfying meals are often those rooted in family, tradition, and the loving influence of a mother’s kitchen.
Chef Diego Reali, a familiar figure to The Yum List readers, has long been a driving force in Kuala Lumpur’s vibrant restaurant landscape. His tenure as Executive Chef for a major restaurant group has left an indelible mark on the city’s dining scene. With a striking, modern presence—think culinary David Beckham, with his youthful energy and distinctive tattoos—he commands attention both in and out of the kitchen. Like Beckham, you can easily imagine him advertising a wristwatch or the latest fragrance. However, his masterful sauces and well-crafted dishes have truly cemented his reputation. Now, he’s embarked on a new chapter, opening Stefania, his own restaurant, which opened three months ago, on the ground floor of KLCC’s Naza Tower.
Stefania exudes a sophisticated and inviting ambience through its thoughtful blend of classic and contemporary design. The deep charcoal walls provide a dramatic setting for the warm, diffused light from oversized drum-shaped pendant lamps, their pleated shades adding a touch of elegance. A playful wall of vintage plates introduces a sense of history and eclectic charm. Dining is comfortable and stylish, with unfussy square tables, modern cutlery, and a mix of dark wood and woven rattan chairs. The main dining area is separated into two spaces, one with a bar and an adjoining private room that accommodates up to eight. Large windows, framed in dark wood with delicate mullions, allow ample natural light to enter, softening the dramatic backdrop and offering glimpses of a bustling city.
Wine List & Drinks Menu
We decided to forgo indulging in the restaurant’s extensive wine selection as Monica was on a sensible detox following a recent wine tour in Australia’s Ferguson Valley and Margaret River. However, the wine list does present a decent range, featuring primarily Italian wines from various regions alongside international selections, with prices spanning from accessible to premium. It’s also worth noting that the restaurant caters to those seeking non-alcoholic options, offering a choice of soft drinks, coffee, and other alcohol-free beverages.
Stefania Menu
Antipasti
Almost immediately after we were seated, a basket of toasted sliced schiacciata, spread with a delicious garlic and tomato paste, arrived at the table, along with slices of focaccia. Three accompaniments were also presented: a salty, rich black olive tapenade, a concentrated tomato reduction, and a vibrant green salsa verde. I always welcome a complimentary bread basket; it helps to quieten any initial hunger and allows time to look over the menu while having something to nibble on. The schiacciata, a Tuscan flatbread, is similar to focaccia but has a crisp exterior and a soft, airy interior – a hit with all members of our crew.
We began our meal with the Bone Marrow (RM 148), an indulgent and visually impressive dish served with caramelised onion, au jus, and grilled sourdough. The roasted bone marrow, presented in its bone, offered a luxurious and decadent experience—the marrow itself had a rich, meaty, buttery flavour that woke my taste buds and set a high bar for the courses to follow.
The Parmigiana (RM 58) was a welcome sight on the menu. The thinly sliced eggplant timbale with mozzarella and tomato sauce reduction holds a special place for me, as it’s a dish I closely associate with Chef Diego. During the many long months of the COVID-19 lockdown, it was a weekly treat, enjoyed as a takeaway with a crisp green salad. Although I’ve sampled this dish elsewhere, Chef Diego’s is, in my opinion, the best, mainly due to the concentrated flavour of his tomato sauce. It’s like a big hug from a friend you haven’t seen for a while.
A new dish for me, Involtini Al Tartufo (RM 78), featured wagyu beef rolls stuffed with salsa verde, smoked scamorza cheese, and smoked turkey ham. The wagyu was finely sliced and gently poached before being rolled into a cannelloni-like cylinder and filled with cheese and turkey ham. The beef was almost as soft as pasta but with significantly more flavour; it’s a dish I’ll order again. It was finished with truffle butter sauce, adding another richness layer.
Our final starter, the Polpettine Fritte (RM 68) – deep-fried wagyu meatballs served in an arrabbiata sauce with grated smoked ricotta cheese – was incredibly tasty and felt a bit naughty. The meatballs, crispy outside and soft pink and juicy inside were complemented by an arrabbiata sauce with deep tomato flavour and a lingering heat that didn’t overwhelm the beef’s richness.
Pizza
Authentic Italian cuisine demands excellent pizza, and Stefania’s menu delivers. We chose the Tartufu (RM 72), a rich and flavourful selection. It featured creamy buffalo mozzarella, smoky scamorza, and a generous layer of wild mushrooms, all enhanced by a potent truffle paste. The crust exhibited a perfect balance of crisp edges and a soft, yielding centre, with the cheese melting into delightful strings. The pizza’s generous size made it ideal for sharing, yet we still had leftovers, which we happily took home for lunch. We recommend it for mushroom enthusiasts, vegetarians and those seeking a satisfying pizza experience.
Pasta
Delightfully delicious handmade Ravioli Alla Vaccinara (RM 82), with delicate thin pasta, almost overfilled with a wonderfully rich, meaty oxtail filling – served in tomato sauce finished with Roman pecorino cheese – is another dish I’ll be ordering again on my next visit. They offer an ample, satisfying, and comforting meal for one, or you could share them with a dining companion (but you won’t want to).
Our photographer, Han Sen, a seasoned veteran of numerous ‘Yum List’ reviews, has sampled his fair share of pasta across many Italian restaurants in KL and beyond. So, when he declared the Cappellini Ai Nero Seppia Ai Frutti Di Mare (RM 78) the best cappellini he’s ever had, it made us all take notice. We unanimously agreed it was sensational. Not only was it visually striking, with its fine strands of house-made squid ink pasta and an abundance of perfectly cooked mussels, clams, squid, and tiger prawns, but the delicious, unctuous bisque sauce, finished with basil oil, made it a standout dish for everyone.
Main Courses
The Costolette D’agnello (RM 172) grilled Australian lamb rack was served with crispy, charred edges from the Josper grill, perfectly rendered fat, and a wonderfully pink and juicy interior. While I often joke with friends about my preference for lamb cooked a little more, I recognise this doneness is precisely how they would order and enjoy it. Importantly, it’s cooked to order, allowing you to specify your preference. The lamb was accompanied by caponata, a Sicilian dish consisting of chopped and fried aubergine and other vegetables, with olive oil, tomato sauce, celery, olives, and capers in an agrodolce (sweet-sour) sauce, and wonderfully smooth truffle mashed potatoes. This fairly generous dish would be enough for two, following a pasta course.
An authentic Italian classic, the Saltimbocca Alla Romana (RM 161), features slices of tender topside veal topped with smoked beef ham, cooked in sage butter and served with a side dish of flavour-packed caponata. While beef ham is often too chewy for my taste, this preparation was remarkably tender, nearly as yielding as the real thing. I might not have noticed the difference if it had not been listed on the menu. The veal was flavourful and tender, and the sauce was so delicious that I regretted not having kept some focaccia to savour every last drop.
Monica was impressed by the Polpo Grigliato (RM 158), praising the Josper Oven’s ability to create a perfectly charred octopus leg. The interior was soft and even textured, while the exterior boasted a delicious crispness. The accompanying garlic puree, cherry tomato confit, black olive tapenade, and paprika oil provided a well-balanced array of tastes, with the tapenade’s saltiness, the puree’s creaminess, and the tomatoes’ acidity all playing their part.
Dessert
Although I rarely order dessert, I always make an exception for a classic Tiramisu (RM 56). Surprisingly, a professional chef on MasterChef the Professionals struggled with this classic – a layered creation of ladyfingers, espresso, mascarpone, eggs, sugar, cocoa powder, and, in this case, hazelnut liquor. The one that appeared at our table could not have been more different than that chef’s failed attempt (dissolved ladyfingers, heavy mascarpone). As presented here, the ideal tiramisu offers a lightness that belies its richness, finished with a lingering boozy warmth from the hazelnut liquor. Chef Reali’s hint about a potential switch to a more potent amaretto gives me an excellent excuse for a return trip.
Our final dessert, the Chocolate Cheesecake (RM 58), is a treat for chocolate lovers. It is made with rich Italian dark chocolate and cream cheese. Its smooth, ganache-like richness was a little too intense for my taste, though the depth of chocolate flavour was impressive—sure to woo any chocoholic. Fresh blueberries, strawberries, and kumquats provided a welcome contrast to the richness. While I couldn’t finish it, The Yum List’s photographer and videographer happily did.
Stefania Italian Restaurant Review
Stefania offers an inviting window into Italian culinary tradition, where Chef Diego Reali’s passion and skill are on display. The restaurant’s simple yet stylish decor provides a perfect backdrop for a dining experience that successfully balances classic Italian flavours with contemporary flair, showcasing family and culinary heritage.
Reasons to visit Stefania Italian Restaurant: a sophisticated setting with easy access to the city centre; must order the handmade pasta dishes and pizza.
Stefania Italian Restaurant
Unit 1.02, G floor, NAZA Tower, Platinum Park
Kuala Lumpur 50088, Malaysia
Link to Stefania Restaurant on Google Maps
+6 014 675 2799
www.stefaniarestaurant.com
[email protected]
Stefania Italian Restaurant Hours
Daily: 12-10.30 p.m.
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