Bakkheia Wine – Ferguson Valley, WA
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
How would you feel about deciding the price of the wine you drink? It might sound too good to be true—or too bold to work—but the Bakkheia team in Ferguson Valley is doing just that. Renowned for their boutique wines, they could be the only winery in the world where customers’ opinions determine the pricing.
This concept isn’t entirely without precedent. In 2007, Radiohead famously released their album In Rainbows as a pay-what-you-want digital download, which exceeded traditional revenue expectations. Yet, not all ventures have found success with such a model. Panera Cares community cafes, for instance, aimed to provide meals to the poor based on customer generosity but struggled to remain financially viable, eventually closing their doors despite their commendable mission.
So, how does it work for Bakkheia? Each year, they invite 12 members (the Cardinals) of their subscription community—a mix of novices, connoisseurs, amateurs, and professionals—to set the price of their annual vintages. According to assistant winemaker Franck Nouaille-Degorce, this unique approach keeps the team grounded. Rather than chasing awards to justify high prices, they focus on authenticity, crafting exceptional wines that customers willingly pay what they feel is fair. With an allotment of just two cases a year for each of their 400 members, this model emphasizes quality, honesty, and a collaborative spirit rarely seen in the wine world.
Bakkheia Ferguson Valley
Bakkheia is spoken of fondly and with much respect by locals in Ferguson Valley. When other winemakers, possibly competitors, are recommending the boutique producer, you know you’re on to a good thing.
Unlike The Geographe wine region’s big sister, Margaret River, most producers in the Ferguson Valley, if not all, are family-owned. Bakkheia is estate-grown and made, and the small production sees only around 1300 cases produced annually.
Vigneron and chief winemaker Michael (ex-navy clearance diver) and wife Illonka Edwards were going to name the wine after the estate, but the trademark was already taken. Instead, they found something that summed up their philosophy – Bakkheia – “the frenzy induced by Bacchus: the freeing from one’s normal self, through madness, ecstasy or wine.” Franck jokes it’s a bit of a marketing failure because nobody can pronounce it, but the intention was good.
Terroir
Bakkheia is about 220 metres above sea level on a north-facing slope with an east-west orientation. The vineyard benefits from abundant light in the fruit zone alongside the cooling influence of the afternoon sea breeze. The soil profile—transitioning from loam to clay over granite and quartz rock—supports 25-year-old vines that ripen steadily in this distinct microclimate, ensuring optimum flavour development. Committed to organic practices, the estate employs anti-bird netting. It also uses ducks and guinea fowl to manage pests naturally.
All grapes, which include Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Graciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec, are hand-picked. Most fermentations are conducted using indigenous, wild yeasts, and the reds are bottled without fining or filtering, with a minimum of two years in the bottle to enhance their complexity and depth. Additionally, the range features a Bondol style rosé, a Fumé Blanc style Sauvignon Blanc, and a Chardonnay, each reflecting the careful balance of nature and minimal intervention in Bakkheia’s approach.
The Wine
Bakkheia’s wines are only available via an exclusive list—it’s like having your own private winemaker. The list is limited to 400 patrons, and a position only becomes available when a member opts out. We’re fortunate to have Franck take us through a fabulous tasting paired with local cheese, salami, and olives he has made himself!
Different Drummer, Sauvignon Blanc, Preston Valley Geographe 2022
The Different Drummer Sauvignon Blanc, crafted in a Fumé Blanc style, showcases high acidity and a fruit-forward profile. With 15–20% aged in second or third-use oak and the rest in stainless steel, it offers subtle vanilla notes and a Sancerre-like elegance. A rare gem, as it will no longer be produced in coming years, consider yourself fortunate if you get your hands on a bottle.
Bakkheia, Chardonnay, Ferguson Valley, Geographe 2022
From Ferguson Valley, Bakkheia Chardonnay balances acidity with 10–20% new oak. Made from three French clones and aged in 500-litre barrels, it delivers a balanced blend of citrus and almond flavours. Yummy!
Tripartite, GSM, Preston Valley, Geographe 2021
The Tripartite 2022 from Preston Valley gets its name “three parts” for the classic Rhone Valley GSM blend (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre). It boasts fresh acidity and tight tannins. Another five years in the bottle will ensure its elegance, allowing the flavours and structure to fully integrate.
Tempranillo, Aequitas, Preston Valley, Geographe 2020
Drawing on its Latin name, the Tempranillo Aequitas embodies fair trade and friendship, reflecting the winery’s ethos. It’s big and fruit-driven on flavour like its Spanish cousins, but with a medium weight, a second glass is highly likely. Manchego cheese is an excellent friend of this wine.
The Matelot, Malbec, Preston Valley, Geographe 2023
The Matelot Malbec wine carries authentic aromas reminiscent of Argentina’s finest. Its name pays homage to the winemaker’s navy past, referring to bunks shared between the day and night shifts. It’s dark, berry-dominant, medium-weight, with subtle tannins and flavours that really linger.
United & Undaunted, Mourvèdre, Preston Valley, Geographe 2021
Typically a blending grape, the United & Undaunted single-varietal Mourvèdre shines with cigar box aromas and a spicy finish. It’s a tribute to friendships and, once again, to the winemaker’s naval history.
The Wonderful Miss Gerry, Grenache, Preston Valley, Geographe 2022
A Grenache with a story, The Wonderful Miss Gerry calls attention to the little property from where these grapes were sourced just down the road. The elderly couple wanted to remain on the property but not manage the vines, so Michael took over the production. The lady passed away before the first vintage. The husband passed away not long after, and the vineyard went up for sale, ending the Grenache. It’s bold and fruity, akin to Châteauneuf-du-Pape styles, and good acidity and tannins make it age-worthy. It’s another beauty and a favourite of Tansy McMurtrie, owner of Skating Goose Farm across the road, who first put us onto these wines.
Bakkheia, Cease & Desist, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Sticking to the naval stories, the original name of this Cabernet Sauvignon was Command. However, unknowingly to the Bakkheia team, the name was already trademarked, and they received a lawyer’s letter saying “Cease & Desist,” which became the new tongue-in-cheek title. The wine evolves dramatically with air exposure, so it’s worth a little experiment: have a sip immediately after opening and then an hour later to appreciate its transformation.
The Bishop, Bin 475
Lastly, The Bishop Bin 475 is a fortified Shiraz honouring the winemaker’s ANZAC grandfather. Rich and robust, it’s a heartfelt tribute to history.
Cojones Muy Grandes, Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé
We enjoyed this beautiful rosé post-visit paired with an incredible WA sunset. Cojones Muy Grandes reflects the hard work behind winemaking; its name humorously underscores the courage required in the industry. Its versatility and pure deliciousness have me imagining it with many a meal in Australia’s South West’s warm autumn weather – especially everything at INARA in Busselton (coming soon).
Reasons to drink Bakkheia Wine: small-batch wine producer making quality wines – some of the best I’ve tasted in the region.
Bakkheia
2718 Ferguson Road, Lowden, Western Australia
Link to Bakkheia on Google Maps
www.bakkheia.com.au [email protected]
@bakkheia_wine
Only 400 clients have access to this exclusive wine, and with the list full, the only way to get a spot is for someone to opt-out. Call the Façonneur de plaisir “pleasure shaper” +61417295568 to get on the waiting list. Cellar visits are strictly by appointment only.
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