Barra KL – Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar, Chinatown Kuala Lumpur
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Peter Tan
This Spanish-loving gal is having an awesome week! First, I got to dine (and drink) with one of the world’s top winemakers, Spaniard Xavier Ausas (former winemaker of Vega Sicilia), and now I’m dining with Chef Ignasi at Barra!
At the end of Jalan Petaling, this restaurant strip is one of the most happening in Kuala Lumpur. Jay, who’s been with the Samadhi group for 22 years, opens the door of Barra KL with a warm smile. The natural wood door opens to a beautifully designed tapas bar and restaurant. Our eyes are drawn down the length of a long, 25-seater rich wooden bar finished off with copper and backed with deep green tiles. Maroon leather seats and hanging bronze lamps follow the line. High tables run down the opposite wall, making cosy spaces for more intimate dining. Finally, at the end of the long refurbished shophouse is a glass-enclosed private dining room seating 14, which can be entirely privatised by drawing the heavy curtains. The staff are smartly dressed in leather and olive-green aprons, adding their own animated accents to the stylish décor. The lively soundtrack of contemporary Spanish tunes adds to the upbeat vibe. Barra is a cool place to be.
Born in Barcelona, Chef Ignasi Prats has had an impressive career in some of Spain’s most recognised restaurants, followed by international stints in Macau, Beijing and Bali. He now brings the flavours of his home to Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur with Barra KL. He describes the menu as coming from all over Spain but with a dominant Catalan influence. It’s an authentic tapas experience, casual in nature but using prime ingredients. It’s not only the food with a Spanish heart but there are also several national gems on the drinks menu.
Drinks Menu & Prices
Red Wine Sangria (RM 35) is an obvious place to begin. Barra has its own signature recipe, which uses red wine and a medley of fresh fruits mixed with brandy and orange juice. It’s light and flavourful, ideal for cooling off on a warm afternoon.
The not-so-apparent choice in Malaysia, but an absolute must in Spain, is Vermouth. It’s so synonymous with eating a light meal like brunch or tapas that a common phrase is “Hacemos un vermut.” Directly translated, it says, “Let’s make a vermouth,” and is used to encourage your friends to go out to eat brunch or have an aperitif. In Barra KL, Perez Barquero Vermouth (RM 35) is the house pour. This is a unique production in that Pedro Ximenez grapes, usually used in sherry, impart a distinct flavour. It’s complex, with dried fruit and spice and a smooth ending. It’s an excellent choice for the cheese and cold cut board that we begin with.
Lastly, you know I must try the house Negroni, but today I switch to a lighter version, the Negroni Sbagliato (RM 48). This bubbly twist switches out the gin for prosecco, while maintaining the flavour profile with Campari and sweet Vermouth. It’s not as heavy as the OG, but it’s a fabulous light alternative for day drinking.
Barra Wine List
Barra KL’s wine list is evolving, with a selection of Spanish and Italian wines dominating the menu. Rosé is generally a versatile choice and I enjoy the Italian Tenuta Montecchiesi Versy in Rosé (RM 45). It’s a very pale rendition with citrus and flowers on the nose, and it goes well with our seafood and vegetarian dishes. Later, the Spanish El Abuelo Tinto (RM 37) is one of my favourite wine blends – Monastrell, Syrah and Garnacha Tintorera. There are lovely black fruits and hints of spice on the nose, followed by elegant tannins on the palate and a lengthy finish. It does equally well with the pork and beef mains.
Barra KL Menu & Prices
Barra KL has a comprehensive a la carte menu supplemented by seasonal specials. On weekends, there’s an ice tray showcasing fresh oysters, mussels, and fish. Rumours even suggest a brunch menu coming soon.
To Begin
Housemade slow-fermented sourdough bread is given complimentary for every table. Repeat orders are RM5. It’s best drizzled with olive oil and is highly tempting (but not wise) to order more.
Jamon (Ham)
Surtido Barra (RM 92), a platter of mixed cheeses and cold cuts, makes a great beginning to a meal or a mid-afternoon aperitif with friends. I could easily see myself taking a break from Chinatown sightseeing with one of these platters and a couple of cool glasses of wine. Featured today are Manchego, Camembert and blue cheeses, alongside salchichón, chorizo and Serrano ham. Dried apricots and membrillo (quince jelly) are perfect for contrasting the savoury bites with a touch of sweetness, and crunchy regañas mix up the textures. The crackers are typical of Andalucia, made with extra virgin olive oil, and often found on tables in the south instead of fresh bread.
El Suelo (Soil)
The menu has enough meat-free options to keep most happy, beginning with Alchachofas (RM 42). The artichoke hearts have been breaded and deep fried and are artfully placed around the plate. Adding flavour are both an ajo blanco sauce (also known as a white romesco made with almonds), and the traditional red romesco. Mashed potatoes give volume and Iberican ham crisps contribute a nice crunchy texture. (You can ask for no ham for a veg-friendly option.)
The Black Truffle & Mushroom Croquetas (RM 38) are a favourite with Malaysian guests. The crisp spheres hold a thick, pasty middle with black truffle aioli and aged cheese. They’re cheesy and earthy and sit on a finely grated bed of Parmesan.
El Mar (Sea)
Leggy Pulpo (RM 98) is sprawled across a black plate, nicely charred on the Mi Brasa grill. The grilled Atlantic octopus is springy to the touch but tender to the bite. It also comes with mashed potato. Tangy chimichurri and luscious saffron aioli are fun components to adjust the seasoning as you please.
Tierra (Land)
Another best-seller is Barra KL’s Pincho De Beef Tartar (RM 54). Black Angus tenderloin tartare is piled high on a thick rectangle of toasted brioche. The bread’s butteriness is perfect for absorbing the rich flavours. Quail yolk cured in soya, piparra peppers, and olive oil caviar add to the decadence. Dijon and whole grain mustards, reduced balsamic, and sea salt are excellent companions for slicing through the dish’s richness.
Proving popular on a specials menu, the Meloso de Tenera (RM 92) has earned itself a more permanent post as an a la carte choice. Generous chunks of Australian Black Angus beef cheek are served over caramelised onion mashed potatoes. The beef has been braised, pulled a little, pressed into a block, and then cut like Legos for easy enjoyment. Shredded fried purple potato makes a textured crown.
Specials
From this month’s specials menu, it’s hard to resist the Vieiras con Manchego y Jamon Iberico (RM 88). We like this trio of plump Hokkaido scallops so much that we hope they also make their way to the a la carte selection. They’re placed on a bed of mashed potato and sandwiched by slices of Iberian ham (you can see the impressive leg on the counter). Fried leeks make a tasty garnish, but the Manchego sauce made with the iconic Spanish sheep’s milk cheese and white wine is the true flavour booster.
Arroces (Rice)
I appreciate Chef Ignasi’s attempt to expand past Spanish stereotypes in the kitchen’s food offerings. They don’t do paella, but instead, “something better,” arroz meloso. It’s a wetter style of rice, taking advantage of the awesome seafood found along the coast from where it originates. It’s not risotto either, although the texture and moisture feel similar. While risotto is stirred continuously to expel the starch, arroz meloso is cooked in a similar fashion to paella, but not all the liquid is absorbed allowing for a creamier texture. Barra KL’s Arroz Meloso De Bogavante Con Carabinero (RM 142) is cooked in lobster broth and topped with eye-catching red carabinero prawns, dots of saffron aioli and beans.
Platos Principales (Mains)
We culminate the meal with a treasured recipe in many cultures: Spanish Suckling Pig (RM 188). I’m dining with two Chinese friends who consider themselves well-versed in the indicators of a quality recipe. Barra KL’s version has been sous vide for 24 hours and then sealed on the grill, making the skin exceptionally brittle. Underneath, there’s a small amount of fat and a thick layer of luscious, tender meat. It gets a thumbs up all around.
Dulces (Sweets)
To conclude, we can see why the Basque Cheesecake (RM 44) is one of Barra’s most favoured endings. It’s extraordinarily creamy, thanks to three types of cheese and yoghurt. It’s only mildly sweet, which makes it too easy to scoop back in for more. Housemade forest berry sorbet adds freshness and a bright tang that slices through the richness of the iconic dessert.
Reasons to visit Barra KL: tapas prepared by an ace Spanish chef; compact but well-chosen wine list; stylish digs; must try the Arroz Meloso, Spanish Suckling Pig and finish with a slice of Basque Cheesecake.
Barra KL – Spanish Restaurant
158, Jalan Petaling, City Centre
50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Barra restaurant on Google Maps
Parking in Four Points by Sheraton Kuala Lumpur Chinatown (across the road) or one of several open-air carparks
Nearest LRT & MRT: Central Market (Pasar Seni)
@barra.kl
Barra KL Opening Hours
Monday: Closed
Sunday to Thursday: 12 pm – 12 am
Friday & Saturday: 12 pm – 1 am
No closing time for the kitchen between lunch and dinner
*Lots of vegetarian and vegan options
**Several gluten-free options but no guarantee of no cross-contamination
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