Muska KL – Indian-inspired Cafe, Mont Kiara
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan
You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.
And you don’t know what you’ve missed until it’s arrived, either.
Muska, an Indian-inspired cafe-restaurant, is exactly what Mont Kiara — and KL in general — has been missing.
Serving up innovative Indian-style meals with a few Western twists in an easy-going and cheerful set-up in Verve Shops Mont Kiara, Muska offers something a little different – and more than a little delicious – compared to the more traditional Indian dishes you might find elsewhere in the city.
Nalin, the owner, and his family have always been passionately and practically involved with food and hospitality, from Nalin’s post-graduate back-office experiences with the Oberoi Hotel Group to investments in restaurants.
Muska’s menu is full of Indian regional specialities and homemade recipes, offering all-day breakfast dishes, nibbles and sharing platters, plus a decent alcohol and soft drink selection, including Indian favourites such as Mango Lassi (RM13) and Masala Chai (RM12).
The chefs are all from India, with a strong grounding in this type of cuisine – Nalin insists it couldn’t be any other way. One bite, and you know he’s right.
Muska KL Menu
We start with Dahi Bread (RM22), a homage to Nalin’s mother’s home cooking. “A yoghurt-based breakfast sandwich with a punch,” and what a punch; there’s curry leaf and tomato and masala and green capsicum and lots of other wonderful things cooked into the mixture. A “yoghurt-based sandwich” might sound sloppy, but this isn’t at all; it’s two fluffy but stuffy slices of white bread with a well-balanced filling. A must-try.
The Railway Omelette (RM20) is inspired by the popular everyday staple sold at railway stations in Mumbai. Again, the texture of the two-egg omelette served in a fresh white loaf is beautifully balanced, as is the taste, with a nice warmth to the omelette from the spice, contrasting with the fresh, tangy mint and coriander chutney.
The Pav Bhaji (RM28) is a delicious dish of mashed vegetables that have been slow-cooked with masala spices. Vegetarians and meat-eaters alike will enjoy this immensely, especially slathered on the fluffy white bread. A squeeze of lime on top is the perfect antidote to the lingering heat.
Keema Per Edu (RM28) is based on a Farsi dish: minced lamb topped with runny eggs and served with a special bun that is cooked specifically for this version. Unlike most bread in Malaysia, this one isn’t sweet, and so doesn’t distract from the rich savouriness of the lamb. The garam masala sprinkled on the accompanying chips is a nice touch.
Apparently, the Mutton Varuval Slider (RM18) made it onto the menu thanks to a guest’s recommendation. And the customer was certainly right in this case. It’s a dry-ish varuval that’s full of flavour and exactly the right size for a great side dish.
The Spinach Okra Chaat (RM18) is another lovely little vegetarian dish that carnivores would do well to consider. Okra is fried in gram flour (made with chickpeas) and served with spinach and yoghurt topped with tamarind and mint chutney. ‘Chaat’ means ‘to lick’, and this represents an entire world of street food culture. Finger lickin’ good, as it were. And it really is good; a very cool and refreshing contrast to the spicy stuff.
I often say that if I had to pick one cuisine to live on for the rest of my life, I’d struggle to pick between Indian and Mexican. So imagine my delight when the Chicken Sukha Tacos (RM20) show up. (I can die very happy now.) Delicious, tender chicken cooked with all the right spices and a generous pickled red onion filling tucked into a paratha which has been made on the skillet (not the tandoor), which makes for a solid, reliable and very tasty vessel. I shall order these again on my return, and the return after that.
To wash everything down, we sample a couple of much-loved Indian beverages. Roohafzah (RM13) is a childhood favourite, a deep pink sweet syrup made of fruits, roses and herbs, topped with soda water, lemon and lime, with chaat masala for a little edge. It’s a refreshing little pick-me-up on a hot summer’s afternoon and obviously complements most things on the menu.
Indian Buttermilk (RM13) is an interesting beverage, sweet and savoury and very moreish. Yoghurt cumin and a little black salt are blended with milk for a more drinkable texture. The cumin hits the back of your throat with a pleasant punch and makes you immediately want to sip it again. Most agreeable.
The Masala Chai (RM12) is, naturally, one of the best selling items on the menu. Fragrant, comforting, with a slight spice; the team at Muska haven’t fooled around with the recipe for this one.
(I also fail to resist a couple of glasses of Asahi (RM17), which go very well with most items on the menu.)
Review
Whether you’re popping in for a morning meal or an after-work meet-up – or any time throughout the day, really – you should be thoroughly satisfied with your experience at Muska. The menu is interesting, innovative, and varied enough to suit either a quick bite or a large group. (There’s a private room upstairs for gatherings, by the way.) It’s a very pleasant place, with friendly service and phenomenal food at reasonable prices. What’s not to like?
Reasons to visit Muska KL: Innovative Indian-inspired cuisine with unique dishes you’ll struggle to find elsewhere in KL; traditional and homemade recipes with modern and Western twists; generous portions, beautifully presented; excellent service; a comfortable spot for a laid-back meal, coffee, or cold beer.
Muska KL
Lot G-03, Verve Shops, Jalan Kiara 5, Mont Kiara,
50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+60 12-256 6560
muskakl.com
Muska Opening Hours
Daily: 8 am – 10 pm
Discover more places to eat in Mont Kiara here and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations for the country here and here.
That’s a very nice place, very Indian. For a while, from the name, I thought this would be a Russian place. Food looks great! I’ve got my eyes on the railway omelette.