Riverbank Estate, Swan Valley
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Oh gosh, we have had a fabulous trip to Australia’s South West, and we depart with a bang with a wine-paired meal at RiverBank Estate in Swan Valley just before we head to the airport.
Only a 20-minute drive from Perth airport or 25 minutes to the city centre, foodies can easily access RiverBank Estate. We take full advantage of the proximity ending our visit in a beautiful natural setting with fine WA produce and award-winning wines to match.
RiverBank Estate Swan Valley
RiverBank Estate is a confluence of viticultural heritage and culinary creativity. Established in the late 1980s, the estate capitalises on the region’s Mediterranean climate and alluvial soils, yielding varietals that reflect the unique terroir of the Swan River’s floodplains. The vineyard’s focus on sustainable practices, informed by an understanding of local ecology, contributes to the nuanced character of its wines, ranging from robust reds, notably Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, to crisp whites, including Chenin Blanc and Verdelho, and with the estate’s senior winemaker Colby Quirk at the helm, a refreshing range of bubblies. Combine that with an established kitchen celebrating the freshest local produce and a picturesque setting overlooking the vineyards, and you have a guaranteed exceptional gourmet experience.
Restaurant
The on-site restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating, with the garden patio especially popular in fine weather. On Sundays, live music plays from the old truck set up on the lawn making for an upbeat vibe and cheerful crowd.
A highlight of the menu is house-dry-aged beef and live seafood tanks. While grounded in classical foundations, recipes are executed with a modern sensibility, resulting in dishes that are both refined and reflective of the region’s bounty. The menu makes wine pairing easy, with suggestions listed for each dish. However, we don’t need the assistance as we settle in for our final hurrah with the company of Riverbank Estate’s senior winemaker, Colby Quirk, guiding our selections.
Colby brings a wealth of experience to RiverBank Estate, having stints at Lindemans, Chandon, Rosemount, Sittella, Lambeth Ridge (Sonoma), Australian Vintage, and Trentham Estate, to name just a few. A master of diverse varietals and sparkling finesse, he’s now shaping Riverbank’s future, proving his expertise with every award-worthy vintage. Beyond the cellar, his palate judges the best at the Perth Royal Food Awards, solidifying his place as a leading figure in Western Australian winemaking.
Riverbank Estate Menu
The location calls for bubbly, and RiverBank Estate’s Rebellious NV Prosecco (AUD 16) is fitting for this beautiful afternoon. The pear and apple nose of the Glera grape reminds me of spring orchards in bloom, floral flowy dresses and good times with the gals. Colby’s reputation for sparkling wine is evident, with this being one of three on offer, alongside a traditional method bottle-fermented option and a Pét-Nat.
With happy recollections of Sardinian adventures, I’m keen to try the Rebellious Vermentino 2022 (AUD 16). This wine is also a special drop for Colby, as one of the first varietals he championed in his early winemaking years. The subtle influence of bottle age has layered in notes of honeysuckle, toast, and cashew, interwoven with the inherent lemon-lime tartness of Vermentino. Colby notes Swan Valley wines generally respond well to bottle maturation, a characteristic enhanced by picking at low pH and high acidity, which helps retain carbon dioxide. This allows the wine to maintain its vibrant citrus core while developing the sought-after toasty and honeysuckle complexities.
Smaller Plates
Chef Frances DeJesus is responsible for our meal and we’re delighted to see several plant-based options amongst the offerings. Chargrilled Cauliflower (AUD 22) florets sit on pale-yellow butter beans with chimichurri, pesto and garlic flakes. It’s a filling dish, easily shared, or possibly even a main for a light eater.
The On the Run 2022 Field Blend Red (AUD 14) is a nod to old-school European winemaking, a style where, historically, mixed backyard grapes were harvested together and naturally fermented. This blend showcases bright red fruit, black cherry, and currant flavours, leading to a fresh and lingering finish. Although composed of classic Bordeaux varieties, the wine isn’t bone dry, and its youthful tannins are remarkably soft. It’s a lovely wine, full-bodied and well-structured. Pay close attention to the label: the hand emerging from the ground, not a vine, is a visual metaphor for the winemaking philosophy of achieving softness through careful tannin management in the vineyard and extended contact with the lees.
The 24-hour Braised Pork Belly (AUD 26) is a triumph, thanks to Chef Frances and its wonderfully crisp crackle. Carrot and garlic offer savoury notes, while sauerkraut cuts through the richness. A miniature apple adds a touch of sweetness, all brought together by a Riverbank Estate Shiraz jus. But the star? That undeniably fantastic pork crackle!
Albany Sardine Fillets (AUD 24) are artfully arranged on Vienna toast, complemented by the sweetness of red wine-caramelised onions, the mellow richness of garlic confit, the bright acidity of cherry tomatoes, and a refreshing lemon ricotta.
Larger Plates
We love the Zucca Roast Baby Pumpkin (AUD 34). Sweet roasted pumpkin sits on a vibrant pink beetroot hummus, topped with a quinoa and eggplant tower resembling a Turkish hat, all hugged by tender broccolini. Little bursts of flavour come from pesto and creamy goat yoghurt. The waitstaff tells us it’s a hit with everyone, vegetarian or not.
The Rebellious GSM 2021 (AUD 16) highlights the exceptional old vine Grenache of the Swan Valley, a variety Colby has sought out over 15 years of exploring the region. This blend (50% Grenache, 30% Shiraz, 20% Mouvèdre) unfolds with fragrant notes of Turkish delight, rose petal, cumquat, and raspberry. Expect textural, oxidative nuances, a medium-bodied palate with remarkable texture, and a savoury edge.
From the Live Fish tanks
As previously noted, Riverbank Estate’s live fish tanks are a key feature, providing the star of our next dish: Kojonup Marron (250-300g, AUD 49). They’re served halved with a vegetable ratatouille, chunky potato salad, and a fresh leaf and grated carrot side. Tools are provided for cracking open the brilliant red nippers. Instead of immediately squeezing lemon, I suggest enhancing the marron’s delicate flavour with the lovely acidity of the accompanying Eric Anthony 2022 Chardonnay.
The Eric Anthony 2022 Chardonnay (AUD 18) has vibrant key lime and honeysuckle aromas, underscored by a touch of vanilla. While not made in the Chablis style, it shares a similar crispness, making it an excellent pairing for seafood. Sourced from hand-picked Margaret River fruit, the chilled whole bunches were pressed directly to barrel (20% new oak, the remainder older). Wild fermentation and natural malolactic conversion are followed by fortnightly batonage to build texture. Minimal sulphur is added before aging, after which the best barrels are selected and blended. A subtle flintiness from the wild yeast adds complexity. This is truly a winemaker’s wine, a testament to Colby’s craft.
In-house Dry Aged Steaks
Riverbank Estate dry-ages their steaks in-house, with most resting for a minimum of 40 days. I’m particularly looking forward to the 500g Geraldton Dandaragan Rib Eye on the Bone (AUD 75), an organic, grass-fed cut, dry-aged for a full 45 days. In a market saturated with over-marketed grain-fed options, this steak has a superior flavour. While it commands a premium, this exceptional cut offers significant health benefits for both the animal and the consumer. Kudos for the grass-fed option.
I am thoroughly enjoying this vinous journey, reminding me of past explorations through Italy, and I’m eager to explore another Italian grape: the Eric Anthony 2021 Primitivo (AUD 18). This full-bodied wine has notes of sarsaparilla, cherry cola, and exotic spice, leading to a hint of black forest cake. Primitivo is a challenging varietal to master, prone to rapid sugar development and potential bunch desiccation, demanding precise timing for harvest. It is hand-harvested with a small portion undergoing carbonic maceration – a technique used in the Swan Valley to balance the rapid sugar accumulation with slower tannin development. It’s pressed off to stainless steel and then aged in French oak (20% new) for 18 months, followed by two years in a bottle to develop tertiary characters.
Dessert
With a bittersweet mix of sadness and satisfaction, our WA journey culminates with Poached Pear (AUD 18), infused with cardamom and saffron, served alongside coconut mousse and light aquafaba. It’s paired with the Eric Anthony Liqueur Muscat NV (AUD 12), a glass of pure indulgence that Colby aptly describes as Christmas cake in a glass. Notes of caramel, raisins, and toffee command both the nose and the palate – a dessert in itself. Reluctantly departing but deeply appreciative of this sweet send-off, we leave RiverBank Estate with happy tummies and hearts full of the flavours of Western Australia.
Reasons to visit Riverbank Estate, Swan Valley: beautiful multi-use location ideal for a cellar door tasting, leisurely long lunch with live music, a wedding under the stars, or corporate event; exceptional wines with both traditional Swan Valley varietals and some experimental crops, too; must order the pork belly, grass-fed steak, and anything from the live seafood tanks; plentiful plant-based options; be sure to try some bubbly, the Vermentino, Primitivo and if you have a sweet tooth, consider foregoing dessert for a glass of the luscious Liqueur Muscat.
RiverBank Estate Swan Valley
126 Hamersley Rd, Caversham
6055 Western Australia
Link to RiverBank Estate on Google Maps
www.riverbankestate.com.au @riverbankestate
+61 (08) 9377 1805
RiverBank Estate Hours
Monday & Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday to Sunday: 10 am – 4 pm
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